克罗地亚

bbs.qyer.com/thread-741050-1.html
【在路上】斯洛文尼亚、克罗地亚、黑山自驾行程,详细攻略+多图+多美食

bbs.qyer.com/thread-771644-7.html

下次欧洲,向左走(去西班牙葡萄牙),还是向右走(前南斯拉夫),这是个问题。

的确很难取舍啊,各有特色吧,我觉得自然风景是南面好,人文的话两牙更多一些。尤其是西班牙南部这块。看建筑,看跳舞,看帅哥,哈哈。
意大利和克罗地亚看风景就很好了。克罗地亚的风景真的让人惊艳的漂亮,和希腊各有千秋。

我当时是从慕尼黑飞dubrovnik的,8月的时候,lufthansa的飞机。最近lufthansa也在推广从慕尼黑飞split的机票,好像往返一个人是150欧左右。split这个点很折衷,去zadar或者dubrovnik都比较方便。

希腊的话我记得直接似乎是没有渡轮的。从dubrovnik出来的船基本都是去意大利的bari的。只能从bari再转船去希腊了。还有一种走法是去黑山,然后再去希腊。

听说阿尔巴尼亚的tirane有一个bus到雅典的。
还有一种就是你坐船,先从dubrovnik去bari,然后从bari转船去希腊,但是没有直接到santorini或者米岛的船。
第三种是克罗地亚航空,从dubrovnik有飞机去雅典,然后雅典坐船去圣岛或者米岛。
圣岛单程8h,米岛6h。bluestar ferry。

Posted: July 16, 2013in:

关于欧洲自驾导航和离线地图

欧洲自驾离不开GPS,毕竟这年头靠纸地图和指南针导航的牛人不多了。关于GPS, 最经济的方法还是自己买一个带欧洲地图的,比如Amazon上Garmin nüvi 1370/1370T used-like new平常买也就$150左右, 北美欧洲地图自带,60天内注册可以享受一次免费的地图更新。欧洲这地方,玩的就是历史,城市建设方面没有那么日新月异,所以地图更新不是大问题。当然如果愿意多花一些银子的话,可以买比较新的GPS享受每年免费几次地图更新的待遇(lifetime map)。

如果手头已经有Garmin GPS的, 可以看看是否支持SD卡。如果支持的话,可以买带欧洲地图的外插SD卡,used-like new 也就$28左右,绝对是个最经济的方法。有时候能拿到只带北美地图GPS 好deal 的同学,也可以考虑一下。

不太合算的方法是通过租车公司租一个GPS。一般是$10/day 左右的价格,除非你是出公差,或者行程短,去一次不想去第二次的朋友。这经济账不难算。之前通过 autoeurope.com租车的时候看见有免费送GPS的coupon, 结果一问说是暑期旺季不算数,白欢喜一场。

还有带欧洲地图的GPS也不需要去欧洲买。都网上电商时代了,谁还有时间下了飞机满地找卖GPS的,浪费时间不说,欧洲买价格也不可能比老美这儿便宜。之所以提这个话题,是因为之前和虫儿在Coscto看看它家卖的GPS,旁边一个推销有线电视的老者自作聪明出的主意。看的出来干哪一行都有聪明和不聪明的。

另外一个不太合算的方法是通过购买欧洲3G数据流量在手机和平板电脑上用GPS。虽说Google地图做的不错,苹果地图也修补的七七八八了,但是问题是欧洲的3G流量不便宜,而地图数据流量又是极其大,我估算过,绝对不是一个经济的方法。所以说,还是让GPS做GPS的事儿,手机平板电脑留着查其他信息吧。

多啰嗦几句离线地图的事,之前看别人游记,有牛人hack了ipad然后自己装google离线地图的,佩服一下。有需求就有商机,现在已经有apps帮你做这件事了,而且还是免费的。我试了一下,很棒。其实有了离线地图,ipad/ipad mini 3G版本的可以当成GPS用,我准备用这个做备份选择了。

奥维互动地图浏览器 - 支持google 离线地图
itunes.apple.com/cn/app/ao-wei-hu-dong-d…

Navfree GPS Live 离线地图是另外一个选择,我也下了备份。
关于 Germany, Austria and Switzerland 的Apps

itunes.apple.com/us/app/navfree-gps-live…
itunes.apple.com/us/app/navfree-gps-live…
itunes.apple.com/us/app/navfree-gps-live…

瑞士旅游局还有些自己设计的Apps,比如查找主要城市Parking的,我觉得也不错。

www.myswitzerland.com/en/mobile-apps.htm…
itunes.apple.com/us/app/city-maps-2go/id…

其它想到了再说吧。最重要的是做好功课,轻松出发吧。

Posted: July 7, 2013in:

摄影的几个小tips

With most shooting I start at f/4, and then consider what I want to tradeoff with aperture. If I want less DoF, I’ll open up and then see how much sharpness/vignetting/CA I want to trade for a thinner DoF. Shooting wide open by default is not a great habit, simply because your lens is not at its best there.

With landscape shooting, I tend to start at f/8, and then consider what I want to tradeoff with the aperture in terms of diffraction vs. DoF. And if I’m shooting landscape, I bring a tripod along, because sometimes I’m going to want a lot more depth of field, and I’m liable to shooting at full frame, where I’m going to need a smaller aperture for the DoF I want than I would with a crop body.
F8-F9, F7 - F11, > F11 start to have diffraction

I often shoot with moving subjects. I tend to sacrifice ISO to get the shutter speed I need.

Most of the time, you rely on the meter. The meter will tell you if your settings are sufficient for what you want to do. If they’re not, then you have to juggle the tradeoffs. With iso, the tradeoff is noise. With aperture, the tradeoff is DoF and lens performance, and diffraction. With shutter speed, the tradeoff is motion blur. It’s kinda that simple.

For landscapes aperture should be chosen for maximum sharpness unless a specific need dictates otherwise.

Waterfall Pictures www.newenglandwaterfalls.com/waterfallsp…
always to carry a tripod

Long shutter speeds are essential to create the soft “angel-hair” or “silky” look so common to waterfall photographs. Generally, speeds of 1/15 second or longer will blur the water to create this artistic effect. (1/15-1/6s) - may go up-to 2 digits second You will find that long shutter speeds work much better for thin plunges or other weak-powered waterfalls.

With the traditional block-type waterfall, we suggest using shorter shutter speeds, such as 1/60 second, because longer shutter speeds on such falls often create a portrait of pure white water that lacks detail.

A small aperture is needed if you want to capture an entire waterfall landscape, including the wildflowers, trees, rocks, and any people around the falling water. We suggest experimenting with apertures between f/6.3 and f/13. Apertures of f/11 or f/13, for example, should capture everything in focus for most shots

a circular polarizer filter can be very useful in extending the shutter speed to your desired level. These filters generally provide you with between one and a half to two stops of extra light. reduce the glare that is reflected off water and wet rocks

Bracketing is a waterfall photographer’s best friend. Very often, the correct exposure can be a full two stops away from the suggested exposure from your camera’s meter.

Europe Pictures

Get close. Notice details. Get closer, real close.

People are the most interesting subjects. Buildings, in general, are not interesting. As travel photographers gain experience, they take more people shots and fewer buildings or general landscapes.

Maximize good lighting. Real photographers get single-minded at the magic hours — early morning and late afternoon

Bracket shots when the lighting is tricky.

在光线对比强烈的场景,暗化周围纷乱场景而强化主体光线,整幅照片是暗调的,可以尝试。- zhongdiren 欧洲行。可惜单纯景物照,风格过于单调。

6 Tips for Photographing the Churches of Europe

These great churches are infamously dark High ISO Slow shutter Open wide your aperture F2.8 -F4

Find the Light - The large, open windows will be your first choice of location for shot creation. Find this light and create an image using it’s contrast.

How can you give perspective to a wide open area? Use angles.

Maybe use HDR?

Posted: July 6, 2013in: