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2013在路上 - 瑞士奥地利捷克自驾游

我的提纲,希望可以在下次出游之前写完,外加整理几千张的照片。

0. 欧洲游功课索引- 行程规划
1. 一进一出苏黎世
2. 琉森 瑞士的一张名片
3. 哭泣的狮子
4. 瑞吉山 (Rigi)
5. Seelisberg的惊艳
6. 铁力士山(Mt Titlis)的雪趣
7. 迷失在瑞法边界的苞米地
8. 马特洪峰一瞥
9. 山巅的温泉浴 (Leukerbad)
10. 依云矿泉水
11. 西涌城堡
12. 从蒙特勒到洛桑
12-2. 洛桑大教堂
13-1. 伯尔尼的熊孩子 (Bern)
13-2. 雨中的伯尔尼老城
13-3 还遇到的几个熊孩子
14. 我们住在Saxeten
15. 瑞士小三峡
15-2 雨中的布里恩湖
16-1. 少女峰的亲密接触
16-2. 欧洲之巅
16-3. 雪线上的徒步
17-1. 007的雪朗峰
17-2. 米伦的鲜花小径
18. 小镇施皮茨
19. 走过路过列支敦士登
20. 新旧天鹅堡
20-2 不一样的海鲜意面
20-3 普兰湖
21-1 迷失
21-2 惊魂
21-3 泰来
21-4 趋吉
22. 水晶痴迷
23. 男人岛上的王宫 Chiemsee
24. 国王湖的鱼 Königssee
25-1 萨尔斯古堡
25-2 最华丽的婚姻登记处
25-3 粮食胡同
25-4 戏水喷泉(jeux d’eau)
26-1 月亮湖的教堂
26-2 巴德伊舍的甜点铺
27-1 迷人小镇Hallstatt
27-2 哈尔施塔特的晨光
27-2 清幽
27-4 小乖掌舵
28. 修道院的藏书
29. 瓦豪河谷
30. 维也纳仲夏夜
30-1 我眼中的维也纳
31. 金色音乐大厅 国人的礼拜
32. 挥汗访茜茜
33. 美景宫 殿堂级的大作
34. 红顶小镇Český Krumlov
35. 百威小镇Ceske Budejovice
36. 王子城堡Hluboka
37. 神秘的布拉格?
38. 雷根斯堡的瓦尔哈拉神殿和小香肠
39. 慕尼黑一瞥
40. 圣加伦大教堂
41. 莱茵河畔的落日

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in:

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冰岛十四天自驾之旅- 关于自驾

冰岛自驾相对容易,特别是夏季,车少,人少,路况通常不错,在广袤的大地上奔驰,感觉特别棒,容易超速(法定限速90kmph,实际车速,呵呵),还好冰岛一路上也没看到警察,所以只要掌控在安全车速就好。

随便谈谈关于自驾想到的:

1. 冰岛公路

最主要的是环岛国道一号,全程大部分是来往两线的柏油路,记忆中只有东北部一段不是柏油路。因为一来一往都是单线,需要谨慎超车和注意前方意图超车车辆,安全为主。

冰岛公路系统以数字来编号,两位数还算是主干路,一般都是柏油路,但是如果遇到三位数的公路就要注意了,有可能是土路了,而F开头的三位数注定是土路,建议四轮驱动了。

我们这一路主要遇到的土路:一段是南部去Landmannalaugar内陆,一段是北部去看恐龙怪石,还有一段是去找Fljotstunga Lava Cave 熔岩洞的路上。总之压力不大,大部分情况下两轮驱动尚可,但个人不推荐两轮驱动开土路。冰岛人家说了,我们这儿车祸甚少,你想追尾都找不到人,车祸原因之一是土路车辆失控。

2. 租车 早定早好。

因为知道要开土路,而且一行六人,所以经过比较,选择了一辆KIA Sorento 七人座四轮驱动SUV,柴油车,在bluecarrental.is上订的。冰岛租车比较贵,而且欧美大的出租行都不便宜,本地车行除了这家,还看了一家评价不错的hasso。本身七人座的SUV选择就不多。如果高一档的land cruiser要贵一倍价格。这俩车幸好我们只有六个人,利用空了的一个座,挤下了两个大行李箱和四个手提行李箱,还有背包若干。车后的行李空间不大,正常感觉只能装一个大箱两个小箱的样子。所以行李空间也是需要考虑的一个因素。

由于一路下来,开了4423公里,虽然这车里程数比较高,7万多公里了,但路上争气,爬山涉水没出什么状况,就是有一处感觉前轮车胎压力不足,打了一次气。

bluecarrental的办公室在REF机场外面不远处,下了飞机没遇到人接,所以需要电话联系来接送。

我们租车最后费用是$2778,平均每天$200。保险选了碎石险(Gravel Protection),主要考虑土路驾驶。没有选灰沙(Sand and Ash Insurance)。灰沙保险是什么东东,原来冰岛火山喷发频繁,还有东海岸风速极高,风沙火山灰等长期对汽车表面油漆会产生的损害,但是短期租车用处不大。租车小弟问我懂不懂这保险做啥的,俺的功课杠杠的,回答流利。

3. 导航

我们出发前下载最新garmin 冰島.Iceland英國.愛爾蘭 2015版地图,基本靠谱。

有些garmin 地图没有标出的路线,主要靠iphone google map 离线地图导航。

对了,租的车也自带导航,但是用惯自己的了,车载的基本没有。冰岛社会稳定,居民安居乐业,没有任何小偷小摸敲窗砸锁的安全隐患。

导航最好的输入目的地方式是经纬度坐标,比如booking.com上住宿都标明了,非常方便。唯一需要注意的是经纬度的标示方式有三种不同的时分秒格式,主要准确选用,否则差之丝毫谬之千里。GPS经纬度的一个缺点就是如果之前没有查准,也会出问题。所以要对想去的地方驾车路线有了解,不能一味盲开。

不过还是要提一下冰岛的地址标识方式。比如:Vikurbrant 16, 870 Vik, Iceland; 这里最需要搞清楚的是870,这不是门牌号,而是冰岛邮编号码(如果google map可以略去这个,否则经常查出错),所以GPS 输入城市的最快捷方式是用这个邮编,你看到长长的冰岛城市和街道名会哭的。16 是门牌号。上述地址的美国正确打开方式是:16 Vikurbrant,Vik 870, Icenland.

4. 加油站

自助加油。分清柴油还是汽油,信用卡需要提前知道pin number,否则在无人值机的加油站无法使用。

加油的时候通常需要你键入你需要加油的数额,加几回就大概知道了。如果加满缸的时候可以去里面和冰岛美眉搭讪一下,反正你也要用洗手间不是?

冰岛加油站的另外一个功能就是快餐店,里面有热狗,羊汤或是套餐,在冰岛餐饮贵过天的时代,加油站绝对是除了自己动手之外最便宜的了。

我们在逛完Snæfellsnes半岛的时候,天色已晚,在Borgarnes附近N1加油站吃了一顿,那家快餐店是加油站旁非常大的一间,装饰非常现代,味道尚可,就是羊汤实在是太咸了。

各家加油站价格类似,没什么差别。回头看油价,基本上半缸油五十美刀左右,是老美这儿两倍吧,正常价。回头找到照片贴贴。

5. 地图

之前有网友说冰岛地图很贵,但是一路实际情况是租车和访客中心都有质量非常好的全岛地图和分区地图,可以收着以防万一。我还碰到专门为自行车环岛制作的大地图。

6. 单车道桥梁。

冰岛路上时不时遇到两道变成单道的桥梁,这时候会车的时候需要先来先到,注意礼让。

7. 涉河:

呵呵,最好的方式是不要涉河;次要的方式是跟着人家的路线涉河;切忌不知深浅鲁莽从事。

8. 冰岛路况查询网站 www.road.is/ 冬季驾驶尤其需要注意

冰岛天气 en.vedur.is/ 冰岛名言:天气不好,不要抱怨,5分钟后可能更不好!

此行两周时间,阴雨天主要在东北部的三四天里面,其它都是好天气。人品运气没说的,当然也和我们八月出行有关系。

9. 电话:警察、救护、消防:112;国家区号是354,在本地无须拨打。

10.不要疲劳驾驶,不要疲劳驾驶,不要疲劳驾驶。

注意到这些,就没有什么可以犹豫的了。自驾吧,兄弟。

Posted:
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August 23, 2015in:

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冰岛十四天自驾之旅-住宿篇


冰岛之行因为是一走一过的行程,14天行程一共订了11间住宿。所以旅馆除了北部米湖附近的是在Airbnb上找到的,其它都是在booking.com上搞定的。Booking.com上的优势大家都清楚了,住宿房源多,可以随时取消。Airbnb上就要注意取消条款了,很多一旦取消都会被扣掉不菲的订房费。

关于冰岛住宿的经验:

1. 最关键一点是:早订,早订,早订(重要的话重复三遍)

我是二月初订的七月底的行程,当时性价比高的住宿已经很紧张了。

2. 北面米湖附近最难定,房源少,性价比高的都被提前抢跑了。所以订房更要从米湖行程开始。

3.冰岛没有太多大的旅馆,更多的是小型的家居式的,比如民居、公寓、旅舍、木屋等,如果一行人数很多的话,需要注意。我们订的旅馆是按一行两家朋友六人标准。

关于这点,后来了解到,是冰岛刻意平衡旅游和当地人生活的一种方法。当年冰岛银行破产之际,有老中申请买地并建议发展大型酒店吸引游客等,被当地民众一致否决了。即使今日的冰岛首都,大型国际连锁酒店也不多见。

4.冰岛住宿许多管理的方法是把房门钥匙藏在屋外的钥匙盒中,需要一个简单的密码。其实订好房间以后,临行前应该和屋主联系索要的(屋主大概怕你随时取消,没见到主动告诉密码的)。结果往往我们每到一处的第一件事,就需要找当地人借电话问密码(要知道,能看到冰岛当地人的机会不多)。

5.有的冰岛住宿带厨房,这是很好的一个优点,这也是后来路上总结出来的。因为冰岛的餐馆很贵(老美餐馆2倍以上价格吧,而且味道好多时候也普通),包括所谓快餐和三明治都是如此。

6.冰岛住宿都带WiFi,密码都奇长,非常重视密码安全性。

7.大多数住宿虽然有多个卧室,但是浴室都是一个。冰岛的洗浴用水好多都有微微的硫磺臭臭味,洗完了倒是会有滑滑的感觉。

8.青年旅社或者有的小木屋缺省是自带床单浴巾的,需要注意下,当然可以商量租借。

9.如果checkin时间未到,你可以和屋主商量暂存一下行李,都是没有问题的。

10. 冰岛人民和老中习惯类似,进门脱鞋似乎是自带的礼仪。

点评一下我们此行的住宿吧,基本上都是满意推荐的。

1. Air Centrum Apartments:
这家是民宿,带厨房。浴室非常小,是此行遇到最小的浴室。屋主男士住在另一边,有单独出入门口。但是它家的最大优点就是location,地点在首都旅游区的中心,出门就是著名的酒吧街,离市中心的Tjörnin湖走路分分钟,非常适合散步、扫街,所谓“一白遮三丑”,推荐。当然如果你能租到附近性价比更好的也成。

2. Lambastadir Guesthouse:
这家是在农场里修的很新的木质旅舍,一共有八九间的样子,包早餐。屋主夫妻友善,送了一张超大的地图,清楚讲解了去Landmannalaugar的安全行车路线。木屋自带桑拿房和hot tubes,晚上牧场一片宁静。如果你打算去Landmannalaugar的话,非常推荐。

屋主夫妇的人生经历颇能反映出普通冰岛民众的生活,自从三个女儿陆续上大学之后,两人搬离首都的白领生活,买了牧场,然后又自行设计了这栋木质旅舍,女主人的弟弟帮忙一块木头一块木头钉出来的,然后2012年正式开张。女儿三个,老大在首都机场当飞行员,老二在冰岛大学读书,老三马上要去西班牙工作了。为啥我八卦知道的这么清楚,因为这是屋主精心准备的小册子分享的故事,而且还有心地准备了周围游玩的功课路线图,当然对于我功课这么用功的同学就用不上了。

3. North Star Apartments Vikurbraut:
这家住宿闹了一个大乌龙。原来这个出租房公司有两套类似的出租房,另一套叫North Star Apartments - Bakkabraut,名字最后代表的是街道名。冰岛大多城市的街名和地名都奇长,平时根本注意不到,而偏偏booking.com上又把GPS 的坐标标错了,指引着我们来到了不是我们订的这栋房。先是发现电话里告诉的钥匙密码不工作,之后再打电话,派了的工人偏偏也不清楚我们订房情况,而我们也满头雾水地发现之前说好的4 bedrooms房怎么算也是3 bedrooms,屋主又解释不清,一通鸡对鸭讲。最后,都开始整理床铺了,才又来了一个工人,告诉我们这栋房不是我们订的,我们是在小镇主街上的另外一栋。

房子的独立的一栋,就在小镇的主街上(Vik小镇奇小,没有几条街),吃饭和超市都在附近,而且镇里的黑沙滩也可以走路就到。就是这儿的风太大了(真的是风太大了。租车的时候人家提醒有时风会把车门吹坏的,我们当时还不理解,到了Vik就明白了)。推荐,不推荐Bakkabraut那栋,有些creepy。

Vik小镇出来的1号公路右手边,有家小店Vik Wool,,有各种羊毛手工织物、动物毛皮、特色纪念品、蓝湖化妆品等,据说是整个冰岛卖纪念品最便宜的地方。我们买了一件羊毛外套和一个冰岛海盗船的纪念品,可以在机场退税(记得要退税表)。冰岛的羊毛制品很出名,但是纯羊毛的手感是在是太扎了。

4. The House by the Galcier:
此行最豪的豪宅,屋主老两口夏天把自己平日住的大房子出租出来,非常大,家具装饰很漂亮,Hot tubs也一年四季常开。当然,价格不菲,有条件就上吧。我们在这儿住的非常舒心,而且正好把衣服也洗得干干净净。强烈推荐。

5. Apartment Tungata:
民居,住在二楼,有单独的出入门口。屋主老奶奶似乎英文一般。瀑布小镇非常美。不幸的是,晚上有露水,外面楼梯非常滑,我不小心一个趔趄倒地,幸好伤势只是半身淤青,没有耽误大事。推荐。

6. Sireksstadir Farm Holiday:
这栋最后取消了,换了更靠近米湖的AirBnb 订的林间小屋。

7. A cabin in the lava, near Húsavík:
这栋林间木屋靠近Húsavík小机场,相对比较简陋窄小,两间卧室是只能睡三人的上下bunk床。因为这是屋主的度假屋,许久没有人住,厨房里有一股奇怪的鱼腥味道,非常惹人头疼。AirBnb的还有一个不便之处,就是大多数的房子只要订了,就无法免费取消。

总的来说,除非你宁可多跑路而不是住在米湖附近,否则就要尽早订米湖的房间。如果我可以重来的话,可能还是会订一天6和两天8吧。

8. Stradgata 37 Apartment:
在Akureyri市中心海边,非常新的海景公寓,四卧室外加一间living room,极为宽敞。可惜当天是阴天,海景不够惊艳。装饰非常现代,美中不足的是高档的平板电炉不工作。因为这间住宿性价比很高,而之前的米湖附近林间木屋有些简单,才有了我调整行程的想法。强力推荐。

9. Hvammstangi Cottages:
booking.com 的地址和GPS 坐标都不准确,结果找了一顿才在很高的山腰上找到,八九间独立的小木屋,不大,基本款,算比较新。厨房简单了些,是普通的便携式电炉子。山腰上风非常大。但是木屋和旁边的帐篷和RV营地相比,立刻高大上起来。住这儿的都是去看冰岛北面那块恐龙石头的,每一辆车都泥泞地看不出样子来。后来发现小镇的加油站可以免费洗车,就看你知道不知道了。推荐。

10. Guesthouse Milli Vina:
农场中的木质旅舍,上下两层,包早餐,屋主住在不用处的农场里。推荐。

11. Aros B&B:
首都居民区里的豪宅,宽敞,屋主来着新西兰,非常友善。这个地点是之前的旅游区比较远,但是在去机场的蓝湖的路上,适合回来时候休整。包早餐。强力推荐。

我们在附近去了屋主推荐的Nettó超市,顺道把冰岛的旅游手信也给买了。还找到一家非常地道的泰国餐馆,满足了两周以来渴望中餐的胃。

12. Hotel Berg:
非常漂亮的机场旅馆。包早餐。推荐。

总体而言,冰岛住宿不便宜,性价比高评论好的住宿订得很快。我们此行,和朋友平均下来,每家三人平均住宿费用在$200/night,各式各样的住宿类型都尝试过了,这也算一种体验冰岛的真实生活吧。

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冰岛十四天自驾之旅-行程篇

趁着新鲜记忆,简单写写冰岛自助游的攻略吧。

现在翻翻微信的朋友圈,我发现自己冬季土耳其回来之后,一边在写土耳其的攻略,一边浏览网上的游记,从最初起意、构思行程、约朋友、敲定时间、订机票、旅馆,在短短的二周时间里,我就搞定了全部关键。之后的很长一段时间,忙着世间杂事,直到出发前的一个月,才又重新看了一遍起初的行程,补充了一些信息。我们这一路,旅行非常地顺利,想看的都看了,偶尔和路上遇到的有趣人聊天,有意无意又去了几个非常有趣的景点,整个行程的安排不疾不徐,而且可以适应不少由于种种原因而微调的行程,精彩连连,堪称完美。

攻略最后有之前行程功课PDF链接

行程综述:

冰岛的环岛游,既可以顺时针转,也可以逆时针转,我个人建议逆时针转比较好。因为冰岛南线相对属于旅游热点,各方面的设施也比较齐全,你可以有个相对适应的过程。有网友说,冰岛的西北面有些单调,其实这是误区。冰岛虽然不大,但各处的风景非常多样化。如果你有足够的体力,冰岛是个处处带来惊喜的地方,两个星期的旅程绝对不会厌倦。

Night 1-2: Reykjavik (2)
第一日市区休整,第二日Golden Circle (冰岛黄金圈)如果不迷恋首都的城市调调,第二晚也可以在Selfoss,这样可以避免一些重复路。

Night 3:Selfoss (1)
Landmannalaugar 冰岛内陆徒步

Night 4:Vik (1)
冰岛南部一线,Vik 黑沙滩

Night 5-6:Hofn (2)
冰岛东南边冰川冰湖一线

Night 7: Seydisfjordur/Egilsstaðir(1)
冰岛东部一线 我们选择了海边小镇Seydisfjordur,极美,瀑布之乡

Night 8-9: Lake Myvatn (2)
冰岛东北部旅游热点,温泉
这儿的住宿奇难,基本上我二月初已经订不到八月初的住宿了,当时在朋友圈感慨了一番。最后好不容易在Airbnb上找到一家林间的度假木屋,简单了一些,而且规定必须两晚。一路上行程,唯有此处值得商榷一些,也许我会在这儿停一晚,然后在第二大城市Akureyri停两晚,跑一些回头路,换更好的住宿条件。

Night 10: Akureyri(1)
冰岛第二大城市,北部一线,住宿条件好。

Night 11: Hvammstangi (1)
冰岛北部一线,

Night 12: Snaefellsnes/Bær (1)
冰岛Snaefellsnes半岛环游 惊喜连连

Night 13: Reykjavik (1) 休整日

Night 14: Keflavík(1)蓝湖温泉

整个行程在一走一过的环岛游中, 避免走回头路,同时又在景色活动相对集中的地方,间断性地住上两晚,可以非常方便的休整和调整行程。每天的驾驶时间在三小时左右,轻松,保证每个景点有充分的时间参加活动、远足、放空、拍照、耍怪、吃东西、躲雨等等,晚上也可以享受美食、喝茶、品酒、看日落,绝无匆忙赶路之嫌。具体的景点和活动,在后续游记中再细细描述吧。

行程精彩:

1. 在Landmannalaugar 冰岛内陆徒步四小时

2. 在Vik 附近Dyrhólaey黑沙滩上骑马,近距离看Puffin

3.在欧洲最大冰川(Vatnajokull Glacier)上玩冰原摩托(glacier motor tour)

4. 米湖泡温泉

5. Akureyri Peng’s餐馆揾食,和老板平哥聊天

6. Snæfellsnes半岛Stykkisholmur小镇 Viking sushi tour 吃现捕捞的生猛海鲜

7. 蓝湖泡温泉

我们略去的活动:

8.Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon 冰湖游船 游船当天卖光了,所以略去了。不过有朋友坐过评价似乎也平平。

9. Húsavík观鲸 -坐船观鲸这档子事,一辈子做一两次就足够了

10. ICE CAVE(蓝冰洞探险) - 时间不对,只能冬天12月—3月才可以。

11. 冰川行走 - 由于火山灰的原因,行走的冰川颜色并不好看,感觉不值得。

12. Fljotstunga Lava Cave 熔岩洞探险 - 没有准备专业的护踝登山靴,被拒了。不过我们在洞口拍了一阵大片。

13. 直升机看火山熔岩流 - 马云去年干的事儿,2014年喷发的火山(Bardarbunga volcano system)已经基本熄火了

14. 冰岛各地免费吃喝的节日,比如啤酒节,海鲜节,音乐节,烟火节等,时间很难赶上,赶上了要考虑人山人海。

冰岛,最大的特色就是自然风光。梦幻多变,美奂美轮,有着你可以想象出的全部元素:瀑布、冰川、熔岩、火山、黑土、禇石、黑沙、青苔、荒漠、峡湾、怪石、地热、温泉。。。。无时不给你带来惊喜,无刻不让你感觉穿越在魔幻的中土大陆。

原来真有这么一个地方,可以让你一见倾心,这就是冰岛。

我出游之前给朋友准备的大概行程功课,大家有兴趣请参考,不过我现在功课的风格是海量数据中汲取,风格懒散,请不要介意: 冰岛2015 14天行程。如希望看到我们鲜活的游记,要加我的微信号fufu201307,不过请自我介绍一下。

冰岛十四天自驾之旅-住宿篇
冰岛十四天自驾之旅- 关于自驾

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August 22, 2015in:

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土耳其十三天自驾之旅- 旅馆篇

turkey_hotels

我订旅馆就是通过booking.com。人家网站设计的就是贴心,更改取消预订方便,打印起来也舒心。最近booking.com增加了旅馆的经纬度,方便自驾,再也不会像欧洲那回儿半夜惊魂了。

确定行程之后,我主要参考tripadvisor.com和booking.com的评价选择旅馆的。因为自驾,旅馆的位置可能并不一定靠近城中长途巴士站,所以参考的时候请考虑一下。

有个订旅馆的小技巧,如果你某天行程非常确定,你可以预订不允许取消的旅馆房间,可能便宜十来块。不过一般还是多花点钱订可以取消的那种。这样你在出游前一个月或两星期的时候可以再过一遍行程和旅馆。我这一回因为冬季淡季的原因,最后一刻发现库萨达拉的旅馆居然比预订时便宜了不少,正好我要调整行程,就把原先的取消了又重新订了一遍,反倒省钱了。

土耳其这儿的旅馆费用主要按欧元结算,你到时候可以刷卡或付现金,欧元、土耳其里拉都可以。

另外说一下,图中价格都是冬季淡季价格,三人房;可以看出来,平均不到一百美金一晚,性价比相当高。如果旺季的话,价格会涨的,你懂的。冬季,特别是一月到四月,许多旅馆因为生意太淡了索性关门停业。我之前订好的一家旅馆,后来发邮件来说不开业了,害得我又重新订。这是需要注意的一点。

土耳其旅馆多半都包早餐,此行只有一家不包。不过,对土耳其早餐期望不要太高,这么说吧,琳琅满目,但是热食很少,白煮鸡蛋加点火腿肠这就是标配了,如果送egg omelette就超过平均标准了。土耳其的面包和红茶都很好吃,还有新鲜水果也不错。

再补充一句,土耳其我们住的旅馆吃的餐馆都有免费wifi,感觉这是当地服务业的标配。

伊斯坦布尔Istanbul: The Empress Theodora Hotel, 在老城区。

优点:旅馆位置绝佳,就在常坐的轻轨T1线旁边,位于蓝色清真寺、索菲亚教堂和老皇宫之间,走路去周围景点都是分分钟的事儿,所以经常回来睡午觉,晚上出门遛个弯看看夜景也觉得安全。房间安静。

缺点:旅馆房间小,浴室淋浴的更小,我都觉得比我再胖点的恐怕挤不进去淋浴了吧。没办法,老城旅游区寸土寸金了。房间看不到什么风景。机场接送收费,来的时候是专车35欧元,走的时候是搭车45里拉。

早餐:这家早餐是我们的第一餐,摆出来的东西琳琅满目,高于一路平均水准吧。白煮鸡蛋加火腿肠,面包种类多,有我家小的喜欢的cheese roll,据说是当地人早上吃的。香梨不错。

态度:两三个小年青承包的吧,态度不错,有问必答。

综述:推荐。一白遮白丑,优点太突出了。当然,你也可以在这旅馆附近搜搜其它类似旅馆。

花絮:有一晚吃太多了,我躺在床上问虫儿说,你去问问这家有没有gym。虫儿嗤之以鼻地说,你看看前台桌子都是摆在楼梯间下面,想什么呢?


库萨达拉(Kusadasi):Liman Hotel

优点:
1. 旅馆位置佳,靠海,门前有公园、临海餐馆,去鸽子岛溜达着就去了。旁边就是出租车站。
2. 房间宽敞。我们订的三人间居然给的是套房,连婴儿床都配备。是此行住的最宽敞的,虽然装饰比较朴素。
3. 老板为人友好热情,是此行最喜欢的老板,对中国人民抱有友好感情,去年跟土耳其团去过中国西安阳朔平遥之类地方旅游。当时跟他聊天的时候,听到阳朔平遥这类地名哥都惊呆了。

缺点:
1. 临街,外面有酒吧的缘故,傍晚略吵。不过,应该怪不到旅馆头上。
2. 夏天停车要停到附近停车场去,3~4欧元吧。冬天,没有客人,就直接在房前屋后趴了。

早餐:丰富。老板亲自下厨给煎蛋,因为只有我们一家客人,都是端上桌子的。芝麻面包很好吃。老板看你喜欢吃什么还会主动给你添。平时遇到都会热情聊一阵子,却又不是很缠人。

综述:推荐。当然,这儿去以弗所需要开车半个种。许多自助游不开车的,大多会住在更靠近以弗所的Selcuk.

花絮:和老板聊行程,得到表扬的同时,还告知了一处土耳其的“平遥小镇”Heraklia,说是没有商业话的古镇,果然网上提到不多。可以我们行程太紧,遗憾错过了。

棉花堡(Pamukkale):Venus Hotel

这家印象不太深了,应该是比较平均的一家旅馆吧。我们也是一走一过。棉花堡去的亚洲人比较多,旅馆里也是。旅馆位置不是很好,但是老板说旅馆白天有车送到棉花堡门口。老板为人略有些小气,慢熟,比如一开始建议我们房间有暖气就可以了不必开空调,后来发现暖气不热,后来聊了聊,又说可以用空调了。

Oludeniz: Pinehill Hotel & Suites

优点:设施比较好的一家旅馆,如果夏天的话,它家的游泳池很棒。

缺点:冬天客人少,也就一两家客人吧。早餐什么的有些怠慢,比如八点开,结果等到八点半厨子才来。

一般不自驾的自助游客都会选择Fethiye 而不是Oludeniz。Oludeniz离玩滑雪伞的地方很近,沙滩也不错,只是冬天天气不好的时候就是ghost town,看不到人,而Fethiye还是会热热闹闹的。看你自己喜欢了。

态度:一般。估计前台看我们大雨里头开车跑来跑去的,也看醉了。问过如果在它家订滑翔伞的费用,单单滑翔伞不包括照相摄影是TL180,我后来自己找的全套是TL200。报一下,冬季价,供参考。

订滑雪伞是前一天通过电话和Reaction Paragliding 的合伙人兼pilot Hakaw Ates 直接订的,电话05337254890 (希望没记错)

Antalya:The Suite Apart Hotel

优点:这家在老城里,所以逛老城很方便。是居民房改造的,老板说2014年开张没多久。老城里面这类旅馆太多了。
缺点:房间很朴素。不包早餐,但是带厨房,我们自己出去买了点油和调料,自己煮的早餐,结果一算这一顿也不便宜。

不安静。也许是临街这条路在老城里算大路的缘故,半夜里有车跑,还莫名其妙地听到许多人声喧哗,都是在深夜里,很奇怪。

态度:还不错。聊了一阵土耳其浴,按我要求帮着打了张折扣券。

综述:这家我不是很推荐。半夜吵这个,我受不了。老城里面找旅馆,千万不要找靠近码头的那面,那儿的bar 更吵,一直弄到午夜才消停。

Konya:Rumi Hotel

优点:算是business hotel,大而正规些,顶楼餐厅比较大,可以看见市中心的景色。

缺点:房间烟味大,即使non-smoking。早餐因为客人少,自助餐改成一人一小盘了。

态度:一般。

综述:对这种一走一过的旅馆我不是很挑剔,但是虫儿非常不喜欢旅馆的烟味。

花絮:进门前台推荐我升级到suite,说是多间 sitting room,收了我TL20。结果虫儿发现烟味很大,而第三张床只是沙发床。后来换回去三人房,果然烟味好一些,而且床都是标准的三人床。推荐很不靠谱。

Goreme:Safran Cave Hotel

优点:旅馆位置在Goreme市中心,就在著名热气球公司Kapadokya的旁边,离周围餐馆什么的也很近。

缺点:这家不是真正的山洞房间,如果你很看重这点的话。也没有什么风景,因为它是在山脚下,而非在著名Goreme看风景的山顶那一片。

早餐: 高于平均水准。每桌送egg omelette。

综述:推荐。

花絮:这家老板是几个小年青兄弟。我们第一晚是新年夜,小年青把旅馆楼上餐厅改成舞厅夜店了,这通蹦恰恰啊。我们开车累了早早歇了,否则可以看看土耳其妹子新年夜是啥装备。半夜的时候,外面大家一起放烟花(没有爆竹),算是和国内相似的一点了。

Goreme的旅馆都想推荐你热气球和红绿线旅游,但是听我们自己事先都准备了,多少有些失望,还追问了我们订热气球的价格,听到130欧元拿到的,也承认是个好价钱。

热气球是通过一个为爱嫁到土耳其的妹子那儿提前订的,价格非常公平。可以微信联系娜娜,微信号:nana8w


Heathrow, London Premier Inn London Heathrow Airport (Bath Road)

注意:机场旁有好几家Premier Inn,这家叫Bath Road.

优点:虽然是机场旅馆,非常高大上,房间宽敞,床枕都非常舒服。酒店餐馆无论晚餐还是早餐标准都很高,味道超出我的预期,价格按英国标准也合理。总之那一晚,微醺扶着上楼的。

缺点:机场shuttle 居然开了一个钟才到旅馆,唉,估计也怪不到旅馆头上。Shuttle 一人收五磅。

综述:性价比很高,推荐。

Posted:
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土耳其十三天自驾之旅- 关于自驾

全家出游的时候喜欢自驾。不是喜欢开车的感觉,而纯粹是由于带着小乖从两岁开始玩,一家子都被老美自驾游惯坏了。

自驾的好处显而易见。行程灵活,想看哪儿看哪儿;时间灵活,是走是停你说了算;省体力脚力,每次都是停在景点门口才施施然迈腿儿,玩累了大的小的上车就呼呼了;可以多带东西,车里吃的玩的少不了。N年下来,没经验的都累积出经验了。在墨西哥环岛中转过圈,在德国高速上赛过车,在智利山地爆过胎,在哥斯达黎加飚过土路,在阿拉斯加山脊上开过雪山,在多米尼加夜色里看过黑衣人迎面飘过,在非洲桑岛老城和行人擦面而过。相比而言,土耳其的自驾是相对轻松的。然而,如果你的驾驶经验只限于美加,欧洲路一窄你就紧张,还是建议你慎重考虑下。什么,你在国内开车跟玩似的,那什么都别说了,走起吧。

土耳其开车容易的地方:

1. 路况奇好,包括山路,绝对媲美甚至超过美欧路况,大多柏油路维护的非常好和新,我都有些奇怪当地政府哪儿来的钱。

2. 城际公路上车非常少,货车客车都少。

3. 路标国际话,清清楚楚。


土耳其开车不容易的地方:

1. 城中开车,完全是国内风格。亮点一:行人趴趴走,随时随地穿马路,所以你驾车风格一定要随大流,就是不能太谦让,否则行人也糊涂了。当然,好在当地人民素质高,没有南京老太之流碰瓷的。亮点二:车子靠边随便停。基本上最右道都作为停车道了,却还有人莫名其妙double-park,常常开着开着突然两道并一道了。但总的来说,城中开车人素质比国内好,鲜有乱按喇叭强行抢道或者不遵守红绿灯的。

2. 盘山路:这里的山路十八弯,这里水路九连环。好在路况不错,但是你要熟悉开山路上坡下坡要点,不能一个劲踩着刹车。

3. 冬季自驾的一个危险因素,天气。我们这一路,经历过暴雨、浓雾及雪地路况,需要集中精神的时候多。

4. 超车:城际公路上很多情况下只是一来一往两条道。如果需要超车必须跨道超车。问题是租来的车都太肉了,很有可能你心有余而力不足,所以要注意。同理,你也要注意对面来的莽撞超车。

此行遇到危险的两次都是由于超车。一次是雨中超一辆大货车,结果超车瞬间货车激起的水雾泼了一窗,视线是零,幸好对面来的车有一定距离,还是在犹豫中超过去了。第二次是在格雷梅(Goreme)open air museum附近有一段非常陡的之字路,我正在费力爬坡的时候对面居然有个二货在山路拐弯处强行超车,只好生生躲到边上让过去。

5. 手动车常见。 你当然可以或应该花贵一点钱租自动挡的,尤其如果你不适应山路这种对手动车比较挑战的路况。

为了避免疲劳驾驶,我们此行大多数情况下都将在路上的时间安排在半天之内,也避免夜间驾驶。至于途中的一些具体路段开车注意事项,游记里细说吧。

租车:

此行是在Izmir 机场(ADB)取车,在格雷梅(Goreme)附近Kayseri (ASR)机场还车。通过rentalcars.com租的,当时要求的是Ford Focus档次的,结果拿到的是Europcar公司的Fiet,手动挡汽油车,费用$356.37/10day,包括保险。另外付给租车公司EUR 120.0 + TAX 的异地交车费。这样算下来一天平均$50多吧。

验车的时候查查轮胎和备胎,然后注意下有没有刮蹭。实际感觉当地租车公司不会以刮蹭理由黑你。当然我们一路也没有问题。

唯一比较坑的是Europcar公司在ASR机场没有柜台。幸好我因为当天飞机时间早而提前一天跟他们公司打过招呼,就这样还是后来在黑漆漆的停车场里和他们公司来取车的工作人员接上暗号。

前文行程说了,也许应该考虑Antalya – Goreme 这一段也改成土耳其国内飞机,这样可以避免花一天半的路上时间,而且省去Konya一晚的旅馆。这一段的长途驾驶,很多都是山路,包括遇到雪地的山脊。

GPS:

我和虫儿都是路痴,方向感极差,感谢发明了GPS。

土耳其的GPS地图是通过Amazon买的卡,插在我的Garmin GPS中。地图更新的还可以,唯一问题是有时候Garmin GPS的路线选择算法莫名其妙地会舍弃大路而走一些小路,这是个很头疼的事情。(我的土耳其GPS地图可以有偿转让,有需要的请联系)

土耳其的地址比较繁杂,通常GPS会找不到,所以一路上我多半使用绝对经纬度来导航。Booking.com的旅馆信息有改进,都加了绝对经纬度。有些景点的,我会事先再查一下。不要一味相信游记里的经纬度,好多有误。

Google map 相对会好许多,只是我这一次看网友讲了许多土耳其电信公司不靠谱的故事,并没有单独购买数据sim卡。偶尔我会用Google cache地图做做参考。Google通常许多国家都可以下载离线地图,偏偏土耳其不允许,算是一个遗憾吧。

Google 地图如何下载离线地图,是它的一个隐藏功能,在你需要下载的地图搜索框中敲一个”ok maps”就可以了。这里教大家一下。

停车:

旅馆选的都是可以免费停车的。平时城中停车看看路边能不能找到随便停的,景点门前就按照指示停车场缴费停车好了。一般停车场费用不超过TL10。

油价:

汽油比较贵。加油站牌子一大溜价格,结果发现便宜的都是柴油。汽油最便宜的95号的,我去的这会儿是TL4.30/升。我不擅长换算,反正我知道Fiet小车大半缸油差不多也要50美刀了,比老美这儿贵至少一倍吧。

加油都有人服务的,掏钱就可以了,我一般都告诉他我要加多少钱的,土耳其人民不管英文水平如何,数字都听得懂。

警察:

沿途被路检过两次。一次问问去哪儿就放行了。另一次从山沟里出来被要求查租车contract和护照,给了驾照代替,最后也放行了。警察态度友好。第二次估计被当成从叙利亚风尘仆仆穿越的了。

没被抓过超速,尽管一路上肯定是超了。多半跟着当地人按他们的习惯开,高速上没有多少人遵守限速的。

高速收费:
出游前功课中抄了这么一段:“收费高速公路:HGS类似于预付费系统,购买高速卡,并在账户在充值,实时扣款。而OGS相当于付费系统,在车上安装OGS装置,账号与车辆相关联,系统记录车辆收费情况,车主定期把自己账户的费用结清即可。自己购买HGS卡比较方便自由,但HGS的缺点是只能定额购买,如果有花不完的余额就只能留给租车公司或者下一位租车的人了。或者租车时要求租车公司装上OGS,还车以后他们会把高速费用结算清楚,然后从信用卡扣除,但OGS装置可能会收取一定费用。”

我租车的时候还特意问了一下,我们的车是HGS系统的。但是我这一路没有遇到任何收费高速路,是人品好吗?不过我还请教过一家旅馆老板如果需要哪里可以买HGS卡,他说一般高速收费口都有。

最后还是以平凡之路的歌词收尾吧,“我曾经跨过山和大海,也穿过人山人海。我曾经失落失望失掉所有方向,直到看见平凡才是唯一的答案。” 有的时候,你真的只需要向前走,就这么走。

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土耳其十三天自驾之旅-行程篇

夏天,从非洲回来的某个凌晨,依旧是时差的原因醒了。躺在床上翻着网上的游记,不知何故,先看到摩洛哥,又看到土耳其。两地都是值得一去的地方,远没有像希腊一样被老中玩得人满为患。冬天,淡季,人少,地中海气候,倒也不会冷到缩手缩脚。不记得哪一篇游记中,似乎提到土耳其的当地人更亲和友善些。而从出游的角度来看,混搭的风格,历史、文化、爱琴海、地中海、卡帕多细亚奇特地貌、滑翔伞、热气球、海鲜鱼市,我是越看越喜欢。很快,九月中,我们的圣诞新年土耳其十三天自驾之旅已经敲定了。

行程综述:

土耳其两个星期出游的大众化线路已经非常成熟了,网上诸多行程和我们此行相似,区别大多在于顺时间还是逆时针转。自助游而利用公共交通的旅友多半顺时针,而自驾的朋友多半逆时针。另外不同的,比如伊斯坦布尔安排在你的行程前段还是后段,甚至前后两段。至于其它的,无非是景点取舍的一些细节了。

我们全程按住的城市划分,是这样的:

Istanbul (3)- Kusadasi (2) - Pamukkale (1) – Fethiye (2) – Antalya (1) - Konya (1) – Goreme /Cappadocia (3)
其中IST – ADB 和 ASR –IST 一前一后这两段是飞的,中间都是自驾。

如果你时间不多,还是要断舍离。我个人认为Istanbul(历史名城)- Kusadasi (都是为了以弗所Ephesus)- Fethiye (滑翔伞Paragliding)- Goreme /Cappadocia (热气球,奇异地貌)是第一位的,其它是第二位的。番红花城(Safranbolu)不是很顺路,被我舍了,后来逛了个农家乐小番红花城(Sirince)凑数。

turkey_roadtrip
(实际行程改动两处,一是(B) Cesme舍弃了,二是(E) Fethiye去(F) Antalya因为天气原因走的是高速路,而不是图中海边的路。)


实际行程细节:

Day 0: 夜宿伊斯坦布尔老城 (3nights)

AUS 6:40pm – LHR – IST 10:25pm British Airways
航班衔接的问题,在伦敦希斯罗机场停了六个多钟。

Day 1-2: Istanbul 伊斯坦布尔 (Monday-Tuesday) 玩两个整天

如果你周一周二在伊斯坦布尔的话,需要注意一下不同景点的闭馆时间。
周一,圣索菲亚大教堂闭馆。伊斯坦布尔考古学博物馆 Istanbul Archaeology Museums闭馆。
周二,老皇宫又称托普卡皇宫(Topkapi Palace)闭馆。

如果有时间,伊斯坦布尔可以再多停一天。不过,两整天时间,我们溜溜哒哒把几个想看的都看了,而且老城、新城和亚洲区都转了转。旅馆的位置极好,就在蓝色清真寺和老皇宫之间,每天逛累了中午都回去睡个午觉,没有很赶的暴走。

Day 1:

早上: 蓝色清真寺(Sultanahmet Camii) - 地下水宫(可以放弃,不值得)- 加拉大大桥(Galata Bridge) - Karaköy 码头附近吃午餐(烤鱼)

下午:老皇宫又称托普卡皇宫(Topkapi Palace)

晚上:觅食 – 回蓝色清真寺前的广场看夜景

看起来不是很顺路,原因是我们看完蓝色清真寺之后再来到老皇宫是已经是人山人海的买票队伍了,据说要等上一个钟。已经快中午了,所以索性去加拉大大桥新城区那儿吃午餐。下午回来的时候果然老皇宫排队队伍短了些。所以经验之谈是一早上先去老皇宫比较好。蓝色清真寺不需要排队的。

Day 2:

早上:圣索菲亚大教堂(Hagia Sophia Museum) -伊斯坦布尔考古学博物馆(İSTANBUL ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUMS)

下午:大巴扎附近的伊斯坦布尔大学 - 苏莱曼清真寺(Suleymaniye Camii)- Karaköy 码头搭4:10去亚洲区的渡轮(当天4:30左右落日)- 亚洲区街市觅食 – 回程误搭轮渡到了新城博斯普鲁斯海峡大桥附近 – 搭公交车和轻轨会老城

晚上:Sirkeci火车站附近的Hodjapasha Culture Centre看肚皮舞(Rhythm of the Dance)21:00pm. 它家还有七点多的旋转托僧仪式(Whirling dervish)。如果你是文艺青年,可以选择看一转两个钟的Whirling dervish(可以参考春晚的小彩旗,还是黑白色的)。作为普通青年,还是肚皮舞让我们如痴如醉。

圣索菲亚大教堂一定要早上九点前赶到,这样就不用排队了。等我们逛出来,排队的队伍又至少一个钟了。

伊斯坦布尔游走,一定要买当地的一卡通,轻铁、公交、渡轮、地铁通用。轻铁车站都有卖的。可以一卡多人用。

如果呆的时间长,想看的景点多,可以研究下博物馆通票,最大好处是不需要再排队买票了。

大巴扎和香料市场我们都没有去。行程刚刚开始,我们实在没有和小贩打交道的心思。旅游各地的小贩,你懂的。

Day 3: 路上半天,Kusadasi玩半天,夜宿Kusadasi。

早上:IST (9:10am) – ADB Izmir机场取车,直接开车两个钟抵达Kusadasi。之前行程考虑到绕路到Ceseme小镇住一晚,但是后来考虑到冬季,跳岛游兴趣不大。为了简化行程,还是在出发前调整了两晚都在Kusadasi。这是明智的,最大好处是可以保证赶明天一大早参观Ephesus。

下午:爱琴海,Kusadasi小镇,鸽子岛(Guvercin Ada)看日落。

傍晚:寻中餐不果,海边餐馆吃鱼。

Day 4: 全天游玩,宿Kusadasi。

早上,Ephesus,世上保存的最好也最大的希腊罗马古迹城。
最好赶在九点前旅游团之前到,你会享受一个真正属于你自己的以弗所。旅游团都是从南门进北门出,如果你像我们一样并没有赶的太早,那么可以从北门进,至少可以避开旅游团的先头部队。

下午:Sirince小番红花之城农家乐,闲逛。

Day 5: 大半天路上。夜宿Pamukkale。

下午路上逛了两个钟的爱神神殿Aphrodisias 和博物馆。

Day 6: 半天游玩,半天路上。夜宿Oludeniz.

早上:棉花堡Pamukkale泡脚照相。天气及时间缘故错过了附近的Hierapolis(赫拉波利斯)古城遗迹。

下午:在路上。暴雨,开到Fethiye旁Oludeniz。安顿下来发现明天是个晴天。问了问旅馆的报价,然后出门预订了滑翔伞,比旅馆的便宜。

傍晚:暴雨中去Fethiye海边餐馆吃鱼。

当天因为暴雨原因,Oludeniz小镇宛如ghost town,所有商家都不开门。偶遇当地人好心介绍,电话和Reaction Paragliding 的老板之一Hakau直接预订了滑翔伞,冬季淡季三个人,砍价到TL200(滑翔伞加录像及照片),算是非常好的deal。滑翔伞年年涨价,旺季更是。还有就是如果你打算要照片,就应该一开始一起谈,不要像旅馆预订似的先谈滑翔伞然后再和pilot谈照片。我看到一些旅友后来非常被动,因为飞下来之后pilot一口咬定照片录像TL100,你再怎么还价他也不松口,结果还是冤大头付钱了事,不合适。

Paragliding Tripadvisor排名:Sky Sports Paragliding - Reaction Paragliding - Paragliding Pegus - Fly Gravity - Focus Paragliding - Airborne Paragliding - Hector Tandem Paragliding

冬天,各家的pilot其实是混在一起的。我们三个人中,小乖的飞行员来自Hector,果然像网上说的,态度不好。

Day 7: 全天游玩,夜宿Oludeniz.

早上:滑翔伞,等照片,和旅友闲聊。

下午:闲逛Fethiye, Fish market吃鱼,Fethiye scenic road drive。

注意选好Fish market旁边的餐馆。我们在这儿被宰了一刀,影响心情。

傍晚:Oludeniz海边散步。

Day 8: 半天路上,半天游玩,夜宿Antalya

早上:在路上。

下午:入住Antalya老城,老城闲逛,然后在老城外觅食。

傍晚:老城土耳其浴

Day 9:半天游玩,半天路上,夜宿 Konya

早上: Antalya Museum。

下午:在路上。暴雨中绕到Side,吃了顿“昂贵的”午餐。

傍晚:终于在傍晚天黑前赶到Konya。此行路上时间比较长。Konya是一走一过的落脚点。所以我在想这段从Antalya到Cappadocia的车程,浪费至少一天半时间,是否可以改自驾为飞呢?值得考虑。

Day 10: 大半天路上,夜宿格雷梅(Goreme)

早上:在路上。山路,居然过山脊的时候路上有雪。

下午:顺路逛了格雷梅(Goreme)绿线线路上最有趣的凯马克勒地下城(Kaymakli)。其它的绿线景点根据网友建议都掠过了。

入住旅馆,去著名Dibek吃瓦罐牛肉,然后Goreme open air museum附近高处看日落(没赶到sunset point)。

傍晚:格雷梅(Goreme)小镇散步消食,庆祝新年夜。

Day 11: 夜宿格雷梅(Goreme)

早上:清晨热气球因为风速偏高取消。Goreme open air museum 参观,越晚人越多。

后来逆时针自驾红线路线。格雷梅(Goreme)-格雷梅露天博物馆-于尔居普 (Urgup)- 迪夫里特峡谷(Devrent Valley)- 阿瓦诺斯(Avanos)-Pasabagi- 大鸽房(Cavusin)-格雷梅

下午:遇到阴雨,回旅馆休息。雨停之后又顺时针沿着红线逛了大鸽房(Cavusin)- Pasabagi。

傍晚:根据旅友推荐,去了家性价比很好的餐馆Firin Express,连吃了两顿。

Day 12: 夜宿格雷梅(Goreme)

早上:太幸运了。停了六天的热气球居然在最后一刻飞了~~

下午:玫瑰谷(Rose Valley)远足,空旷无人,可惜没看到日落,云太厚了。

Day 13: 夜宿希斯罗机场旁酒店。

清晨3:00起床,开车去ASR机场,还车。
ASR (6:00am) – IST
IST – LHR (4:30pm arriving)

有些不放心土耳其航空的准点率,所以选了最早一班飞机。如果胆子大的话,可以选晚一些的航班,就不需要起大早了。

Day 14: LHR –AUS (5:00pm arriving)

大伙儿看我出游前做的功课总是觉得信息过载,太匆忙紧凑。其实这是误区。我们现在玩起来,早已过了按部就班的玩法了。大道至简。当你有了一些想看的目的地,而且大概知道方位之后,我们都是走哪儿算哪儿。即使有一些错过了,也就错过了。大千世界,总是看不完的,而你也总会因为误打误撞看到与众不同的精彩。

冬季出游的好处的游人相对少一些,记住,只是相对而已,其实著名景点游人还是不少。走过之后,我觉得土耳其夏季旺季还是算了,游人多,天气热,会让许多景点大打折扣。比如好多旅友夏天去了蓝色清真寺光记得脚臭了,因为进门必须脱鞋和带头巾。冬季出游最揪心的就是地中海的雨季气候,这就要看人品的了。我们出游第一周天高云淡,第二周总是在雨里面赶,只是人品超好,雨在路上居多,每到一个地方,天居然都放晴了。冬季出游还有一个特点就是五点多天就黑了,这一点就见仁见智了。对我家虫儿来说绝对是好事,每晚我还在做功课写故事的时候,她就早早洗洗睡了。土耳其这一路,虫儿绝对是来补觉的,每天保证十个小时的睡眠,外加一个钟的午觉,妥妥的。啰嗦了这么多,最终要点:个人感觉,土耳其最佳出游时间是十到十一月份。

有时间会说说冬季自驾的注意事项,及经历过旅店餐馆感受。总而言之,土耳其之游精彩程度超过了我之前的预期,是非常适合全家人出游的。大伙儿,别闲着了,走起吧。

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走进东非 – 其它

1. 要不要打Yellow Fever?

我们走之前纠结的一件事情,纠结程度取决于你的心里承受能力。

简单办法,打。不过在老美这儿,一针Yellow Fever的费用平均是$150,而且是活菌疫苗。一度副团长两口子都决定从了,结果到了诊所一听说是活菌疫苗,又吓回来了。

那肯尼亚和坦桑尼亚是Yellow Fever高危地区吗?已经很久不是了。老美这儿的CDC也没有明确建议去东非需要打Yellow Fever。

但是肯尼亚和坦桑尼亚两国在Yellow Fever查黄皮书这件事情上还是没准信,说是怕你从疫区来传染他们。目前消息是你如果你从美国或欧洲直飞NBO,机场不查。而如果你从中国飞的话,会抽查。同理也适用于Zanzibar(桑岛)。

所以像我们Safari 一圈,然后登陆桑岛,理论上是要查的,别人也碰到过。我们这次人品好,连护照都没查,填了个入关单就进了。

如果被查到怎么办,一是原地被按着打一针,二嘛,呵呵,准备些小钱了,发展中国家,灵活点儿。看你自己取舍了。对了,我还打印了一份桑岛关于这事儿的英文信,准备一旦查到据理力争来着。

2. 防蚊

老听着非洲这儿闹疟疾,听得多了,自然也心慌。你自己看家庭医生开些药,有预防的,有得了再吃的,反正都是抗生素,副作用不小。我们小伙伴开了些,不过药量据说只能救一个人。。。看着办吧。

所以我买了好多防蚊喷剂,含DEET的,deep woods 25%含量的;后来临走前看见有特价,还买了瓶100%含量的,剧毒,我后来试验过,喷一下蚊子就翘了。对了,小伙伴还准备了祖国特怀旧的蚊香。

Safari路上其实蚊子不多,长衣长袖就够啦,没怎么喷。

旅馆房间因为档次不错,防蚊工作都很好,纱窗,还有蚊帐。有的旅馆晚上还有专门来上门铺床挂蚊帐的(特不习惯),总之我们的防蚊喷剂用的不多。蚊香吗?luxury tent那次点了一晚,还别说,闻着睡就是安稳,跟吃了安慰剂似的。

当然,如果你要是北美冬天东非的雨季去,可能就需要多注意了。我后来读了网上关于桑岛援非医生的博客,说是雨季那个吓人,岛上还闹血吸虫,看了让我觉得这说的是同一个桑岛了。从另一角度,热带地区还是要避开雨季出游。

3. 防尘

我们准备了些一次性的防尘口罩,dirt road有时候用用,不错。就是一般的,Costco买的,没用上防萨斯病毒的那种。小伙伴还买了一些明星带的棉布口罩,也不错。

湿纸巾很受欢迎。

4. 如果你打算桑岛浮潜和与豚共泳,一定要带自己的snorkeling gear,租的都漏水,没法用。

5. 相机,注意防震。车子在路上非常颠簸,对相机是绝对考验。

我的设备是 两头(6D 和7D), 镜头是70-200 F4 IS +1.4x增倍镜,另一个是24-70 F2.8,感觉可以了。当然长焦镜头一寸长一寸强,size matters,看你身板和腰包了。沙袋没啥用,车上都是手持,司机都很体贴,所以没停稳你也别瞎拍了。

三脚架适合自拍很有逼格的大片。

存储卡多带些吧。副团长头两天太激动了,路边一群羊就扫射了两三百张,后几天旅馆的主要娱乐活动是晚上和夫人躲在蚊帐里。。。。删照片。

电源插头买个国际通用的就妥了。

6. 其它旅行要带的,就跟平时出游一样了吧。怕忘了,可以看看Onebag.com的旅行清单。

7. 行李拿多少?

我们一车五个人,一个大行李箱(托运尺寸),一个大旅行袋(托运的),两个小旅行箱(手提),三个随身backpack,极限了,再多只好拿绳子拖车后了。

国内小飞机不看单个行李,称总重量,所以我们的都还好。

8. 零食、方便面

习大大都说了,出去少吃方便面。我们主要是落地第一晚(午夜了)吃了包面,其它都在外面大吃二喝的。

原来还想弄瓶酒带着,后来嫌麻烦。不过British Airway上面晚餐有酒喝,味道不咋地,虫儿都留着了,后来路上大伙干杯了。

零食,看你口味了,路上那么长时间,闲着也是闲着。

对了,在桑岛和援建老总们喝,发现一种酒,BENTLY London Dry Gin,味道不错,不知道老美这儿找不找的到。

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September 22, 2014in:

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走进东非 – 纪念品

纪念品这东西完全看人了,我们和小伙伴都不算疯狂型的,所以一路还好。最初的打算是最后一天在内罗毕逛当地的马赛市场,正好买了打到行李里。后来导游告诉我们内罗毕要比其它地方贵,我们还半信半疑。再后来发现的确如此,内罗毕的小贩非常难缠,除了卖主之外,还有莫名的中间人,在市场门口拦着我们要求帮着带路,一群人围上来,感觉非常不好。因为小乖买的廉价首饰不够送她朋友们,我强打精神跟他们纠缠了一阵,开口要价非常离谱,一个破首饰要五刀十刀的,而实际价格我们路上买的是六个五刀的,最后一刀一个了事。小伙伴们不习惯,早早躲回车上了。一句话,不要指望内罗毕的马赛市场。

然而内罗毕的当地超市是买黑茶(black tea)和咖啡的好地方,可以当做朋友同事的手信。我买了许多红茶,以至于大伙觉得我有些疯狂。但是实在是便宜啊。问了当地人,黑茶一定要选Ketepa标志的,算是当地质量信得过产品。

木雕木刻,这是当地有特色的工艺品,以红木和黑木(ebony)著名,真正的黑木要比水的比重大,可惜没法试,不知真假(据说假的多)。我一般是掂掂重量,比较沉的为好,另外看看手工。当然价格不知道是被欧美还是亚洲人炒起来的,开价通常惊人。

两个导游顺路各自带我们去了一两家,正好可以停车歇脚(不过分)。门脸大的一看就是骗游客的,价格标的很高,连砍都不想跟他们费事了。不过木刻主要是坦桑尼亚产的,相对便宜,我们在一家坦桑尼亚路上的小纪念品店各自买了个小木雕犀牛和狮子,要价$50,最后两个$40拿下。

最便宜的一次是在Arusha小机场等飞机的时候,一个小伙子摆了个小摊子卖木雕,还拿了一个非常大的大象一家说是他爸爸的手艺,给出的价格就非常靠谱。后来我和小伙伴各自以$20拿下,他要价好像是$30,非常的为难,后来还是同意了。原以为买的和之前的大小类似,后来回来一比,要比前一个大一号,所以说这是此行买的最便宜的木雕了。只不过他爸爸的手艺这个说法,后来又有N个人这么说,看来真假难辨,多半只是小贩们的一种托词了。

后来还在桑岛烧烤广场那儿趁夜色买了一堆木刻小人。原本我们是闲逛看景儿来着,突然走着走着小伙伴旁边就跟上了个小贩,手里拿着大大小小六个马赛人木刻,要价$30,说是就剩这几个了。小伙伴砍到$20成功,问他要个袋子装。小贩去马路对面拿了个很漂亮的布袋给她,然后又转到我身边,变魔术似的从身后又变出四个人偶木刻,说是$15就卖。抵挡不住,还是欢喜买了。木头很轻,不是好木头,难得雕得是当地特色,只是至此虫儿下令,不许再买木头了。

在MAASAI MARA旅馆里还跟马赛村的大姐买了个脸谱面具,砍来砍去砍不下价,又加了两个手链和一个牙饰项链,算是$15。 狮子牙项链小乖很喜欢,回来到处都戴着。

很好笑的是朋友回到奥斯丁不甘心,去逛World Market Stores,发现一只肯尼亚原产的合欢木长颈鹿,只要$15,欣然买下。买来买去,还是老美这儿最便宜。

对了,坦桑尼亚还特产一种蓝宝石,坦桑蓝,我们在当地贵的礼品店见到过,那价钱就真的按宝石价来算了。

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September 20, 2014in:

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走进东非 – 钱

肯尼亚货币: Kenyan shilling 肯尼亚先令, 美金比率大约1:85; 坦桑尼亚货币:Tanzanian shilling 坦桑尼亚先令, 美金比率大约1:1600。

这次的功课准备上,钱的方面吃了些小小苦头,听我细细说说。

Safari Tour的费用支付是这样一个过程:先谈好package的价钱,然后签份合同(之前已经附录了我们的合同),提供的服务和价钱都在黑字白字写好(如果以后有争执合同就很重要了),然后将预付款给旅行社wire过去,通常他们会要30-50%的预付款,我争取了一下,我们的降到了25%。汇钱的时候这儿的银行多半会收些手续费,比如Chase收了我$45,然后肯尼亚银行那面也会扣些钱(据说扣了$10),这些就只能我们自己承担了。

汇钱之前唯一需要做的是查一下肯尼亚官方旅游网站,看看他们给的汇款地址是不是和网站上登录的一样。但是如果旅行社靠谱,成立时间有一段了,自然不会骗了你的钱跑路,所以这点互信还是要有的。

剩下的费用他们要求美金现钞带过去,所以此次旅行是我带钱最多的一次。

旅馆是通过booking.com订的,后来发现只有内罗毕的旅馆他们接受了信用卡,而桑岛上的旅馆都希望我们用现金付,而那会儿我们已经没有那么多现金了。婉拒之后,石头城的那家他们让我们留下了信用卡的信息,后来通过加拿大银行支付的;而Paje的那家恰巧收银机也不好用,带我去他的姐妹旅馆付的,但是说坦桑尼亚银行要额外收5%信用卡的费用。似乎是这样的,因为之前一家餐馆也是这样要的。

总结一下,就是这两个国家信用卡不太好用,当地生意人更看重现金。这方面,坦桑尼亚比肯尼亚还落后。

坑爹的事情来了,虽然我和小伙伴按照之前的预算带了一裤兜的现金,但是两国生意人和官方都只收2004年之后的美金,之前的不能用。我们第一次遇到是在Safari旅行社,他们把美金百元大钞一张张查一遍,然后退回了几张,弄的我们傻眼。后来发现,越新的美钞他们越喜欢。

再后来,在坦肯边境的时候,移民局官方告示清楚写的提示,让我们无话可说。

我还做好事帮导游换了一张百元大钞的小费,于是我们带的现金越来越打了折扣。

到后来桑岛的时候,我们完全靠小伙伴的现金救济了,而且大伙还忐忑不安地不知道是否旅馆收信用卡,否则大家讨论到底是应该留团长还是副团长在这儿打小工赚钱。

穷游生活直接影响到我们的旅行体验。在桑岛中餐馆吃晚餐的时候,一问他们只收万事达卡却不收签证卡,大家立刻默默掏出现金凑钱,点菜都点的不过瘾,茶水米饭要钱的都拒了,最终消费$35。后来搞定旅馆之后,大伙们立刻觉得财大气粗,次日再去餐馆的时候,豪气万丈,这个那个点了一堆,结果一顿午餐反而吃了$70多,小伙伴们都挠头不知道怎么吃的。

后来小伙伴们还遇到被餐馆一张张查二十刀美钞年份的。。。

至于换钱,我们一路上为了加油,和车行老板换了一百美刀的坦桑尼亚先令,1:1600吧,算是合理。结果一半加油,另外一些机场随手买了些纪念品,我还帮同事换了些新钱收藏。当地的钱老板说都是中国帮助印的,不知道肯尼亚的是不是?摸起来手感比较像。

其余都是美刀说话。所以还是要准备许多小面额的一元纸币,留做小费用。当地旅馆最喜欢帮我们拎行李,因为简单又有的赚。当然网上有人提议多换些当地散钱当小费更方便当地人,我们一路没有时间,就算了。

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走进东非 – 交通/自驾篇

Safari Tour是无法自驾的,且不说公园之间的土路,就是你开得了,到了园中也是两眼摸黑。人家司机都是身经百战和装备齐备的(无线通讯),所以还是好好花时间找家靠谱的旅行社订个满意的package更重要。

之前写了好多找旅行社的经验,这儿再总结一下,一个成功的Safari Trip,我认为是由这四个元素组成的: 旅行社,司机,Safari车辆,和游客的心态。

旅行社相对容易些,因为参考我的文章和网上的评论,你多半可以知道这家旅行社是不是靠谱。互联网时代,好坏消息都传的很快。可惜,这只是个开始。

司机是一个很难捉摸和控制的元素,因为你不知道这家公司有多少司机,年纪多大,经验多少,而且旅行社也不会给你选,总是轮到哪个算哪个。所以如果有时你在别人游记里读到好的司机,可以跟旅行社指定。但是司机跳槽也很常见,所以游记中的信息往往就过时了。我唯一能想到的,就是不要找太廉价的旅行社,因为你的价格压得太狠了,那么自然司机挣的工资少,能留下了的好司机自然少。所以要选择比较中档价格的safari tour公司。

司机的年龄和经验也很重要。太年轻的自己都是菜鸟,未必知道哪里可以看得到动物,认识的人也不多。年纪大了好多就油滑了,懒得多跑,或者体力也跟不太上了。毕竟Safari我们坐车的都觉得累,开车的绝对是体力活。

我们此行的司机,肯尼亚这面的Ben是个好人,比较吃苦耐劳,愿意带我们多跑,该看的动物都看到了。但是缺点是人比较内向不太愿意多说,还有就是年纪有些大体力上有些跟不上。比如说有一天午饭盒旅馆只准备了我们的,没有准备他的,结果他也不和我们说,开到晚上到了旅馆他下车居然有些晕了,吓了我们一跳。后来每次中午我们都至少剩出一盒送给他。说实在,午餐饭盒很单调,全程各旅馆都是没有味道的鸡肉鸡腿,我们都懒得吃。

好人这一点更明显,因为在MAASAI MARA帮一个开两轮驱动旅行车的司机拖车就拖了两回,还和我们解释这儿都是大家帮大家的。只是那个司机太笨了,跟在我们后面,同一个坑都能陷进去两回,后来我们都被跟怕了。

只是Ben性格内向少言,我们同行小伙伴有些小意见,我倒无所谓,因为遇到光说人太滑的我更不喜欢。

坦桑尼亚的司机Henry是个比较年轻的司机,五六年的经验刚刚好。为人健谈,又知道和人打交道,他一路上没有无线电,只是靠和人交流信息,就找到了好多动物。我们对他非常满意。后来我们去机场的路上,莫名被警察拦检,解释不听,怕耽误时间,他自己气得到车后塞钱了事。唯一少少不靠谱的一点是第一天说好的时间晚了半个钟,又没来电话,弄得我们不知所措。不过我们说过了,之后也没别的问题。

Safari司机多少要靠小费才可以过上当地人羡慕的日子。按照规矩,一般的小费是每天$10-15/游客人数。我的原则是一开始上车就思想动员,鼓励他们放下包袱兢兢业业,小费是没有后顾之忧的,而且绝对多劳多得。后来,因为两个司机都很满意,我们都是按照略超上限给的。

Safari车辆,重点来了,这是最大的变数,也是我们之行最大的体会,就是一定要靠谱的车。可惜我们这一次,在肯尼亚和坦桑尼亚都出了小状况。肯尼亚Safari允许两类车上路,一l是van,二是suv – land cruiser,后者价钱要比前面的贵一些。我一开始是按suv谈的价,后来有些小农想省钱,又因为我们小伙伴的加入,想着车里空间大一些,就换了van。如果我给建议的话,还是坚持suv吧。即使是van也一定要问清楚,千万是4×4驱动的,否则两轮驱动的就是个笑话。因为非洲的土路不是我们想象中的没有铺沥青的碎石子路,而是千真万确大自然压出来的沟渠纵横的红土路,掉到坑里是难免的,如果晚上下过雨,那泥泞滑劲儿,车子仿佛开在冰上一样。不好的车非常危险。

我们在MAASAI MARA公园里遇到的状况是Ben 的Van在开进公园没多久就突然挂不上挡了。还好不远,勉强挂上低档,咆哮着开到公园外面的马赛村,在当地“最豪华”的修车铺弄了半个钟,妥了。

坦桑尼亚所有Safari车都是Land Cruiser SUV,唯一区别是三排座的和四排座的,Henry开的是三排座的,坐我们五个人刚刚好,不能再多了。一路都好,结果在最后NGORONGORO天坑里突然也出了故障,拦了几辆车,不知道借了个什么工具自己钻到车底下摆弄了半天,也算好了,多少让我们吃了一小惊。

其实Safari 车因为长年行驶环境恶劣,出些小状况也可以理解。这时候大的旅行公司可能有优势,因为他们附近可能就有车帮你换,我们遇到圣地亚哥一家老中说他们的车也算了,结果在MAASAI MARA公园门口换了辆公司的车。但是另外一个网友运气不好,他用的是和我同一家公司的,结果坦桑尼亚这面接车的SUV先是车坏了修了两个钟,后来又副油箱油路不同,黑夜里停在茫茫的非洲大草原中修车,最后赶时间又在野地里乱跑,让人心惊肉跳也是难免的。最后需要从很远处调一辆车过来,耽误不少时间。

车的问题说了这么多,有个时候要靠少少运气和人品。如果你愿意多出一些钱,还是不要省在车的这部分了。

最后的一点就是我们游客的心态了。去的是非洲,自然不要想着欧美的旅游条件。如果追求那种豪华程度也是可以的,多出银子就得。我们路上看到一辆高大上的旅游车,完全高架全车封闭,跟武装装甲类似,司机看到动物之后,自动开启各个车窗,里面露出一群漠然的人和一群炮筒式的照相机,跟我们一群站在车顶风吹雨淋嘻嘻哈哈的游客完全不可同日而语。

如果遇到状况,兵来将挡,水来土掩,趁着应对就好,最后安全了再谈谈有没有其他补偿方法。人在路上,最重要的是心态。东非固然穷困些,但我们是奔着动物去的,如果你没有看动物的心情,整日埋怨旅行环境,自然非洲是不适合你的,还是省钱去别的地方玩玩就好。

关于心态,我特骄傲我们的这队小伙伴。虽然他们出发前并没有我知道的这么清楚,但是一直是正能量满满,动物从头看到尾,兴致满满,有时一潜伏就是大半天,果然,所有的精彩都看到了。

东非的人开车风格跟祖国人民类似,属于无序而彪悍型的,车与车的前后左右间距极短,路上很少红绿灯,都是靠转盘和bumper控制,完全靠大家的默契程度,加上路肩上摩肩接踵,行人自行车摩托车遍布,又是英国式的左道行驶,非常的费神,所以还是不建议在大陆上开车。难得的是我们一路,没有遇到一次车祸,而且当地人开车很少乱鸣喇叭,相对平和得多,这一点,完胜祖国人民。

我们在内罗毕的最后半天,跟旅行社讨价还价,五个人的van,租个司机$60,陪半天时间,要比自驾方便多了。

桑岛自驾,呵呵,也算是人生挑战,因为想着岛上的路相对方便认一些,应该开不丢了。结果石头城的蜿蜒小巷害苦了我们,又没有街名,完全没有方向概念。去石头城的那天是靠车行老板前面领路开到的,而从石头城去Paje的那天,一共开了两个钟,陷在石头城的traffic里就足足大半个钟,开得我是一头细毛汗,幸好靠着iphone google map的离线地图,一步一步挪出来。

出了城自然就顺了。走之前网上说桑岛警察常常路检拦车,无理取闹,只能靠小钱打发,我做功课的时候还专门研究了好一阵,零钱美刀满满。结果岛上这两天,只有从Paje出来的时候碰到了两回警察,车窗一开,jambo jambo问个好,笑脸,手迎上去,兄弟般地握握,聊上两句,最后补充上一句: I love this country,挥手走人,从来没有麻烦。看来,中桑友谊前人种树后人乘凉,关系还是杠杠的。

桑岛租车我找到三家,价格差不多,我最后找了家便宜我$5, $45/day包括保险,自动挡,小SUV,五个人刚刚挤得下,另外办一张当地的驾照认证$10。还车的时候停在机场,四处找电话想打给车行老板,结果看着机场警察拿个samsung手机,上去一夸,警察乐的合不拢嘴,问我啥事,结果不光帮着打电话,还跟着我去机场停车的地方认清租的车,然后钥匙一拿,说妥妥地,走您的吧,车行老板会来找我的。

知道我为什么这么喜欢这两个国家了吗,不光是动物和风景,更重要的是当地人民这份的善良劲儿,旅游服务的也好,普通民众也好,并非因为生活不易而自卑自傲,许多时候助人为乐于他们而言是发自内心的。我真的希望他们能坚持下去,这样的好人,我向来不吝啬小费的。

而再美的地方,如果人是刁的,我是万万不会去的。目前在我榜单之上,埃及属于此类。

Zanzibar Car Hire Ltd
Zanzibar express

Zanzibar Rent A car.

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走进东非 – 行程篇

接着说说此行行程的主要亮点:

2. 行程按照我们的节奏来说不疾不徐(当然这个有主观观点,每个人出游的节奏不一定一样)。非洲之行多呆一天要算一天的费用,特别是safari trip,所以8days/7nights是个比较好的package,涵盖了肯尼亚(四晚)和坦桑尼亚(三晚),基本上想看到的动物都看到了。既有肯尼亚动物迁徙的大场面,各式动物的概括,又有坦桑尼亚针对猎豹狮子大象等稀有动物的近距离接触,节奏和顺序都刚刚好。最后三晚的桑岛之游更是点睛之笔,面朝大海,洗去一身风尘,美食美景,流连忘返。

东非旅游旺季是七八两个月,因为旱季开始,动物从坦桑尼亚迁徙到肯尼亚。我们这次是八月初到的Masai Maro,稍稍晚了几天,没有看到真正的角马过河场景。如有兴趣的朋友可以参考这个网站,HerdTracker-Live Map, 还有录的角马过河短片。然而实际过河时间每年都会变化,可遇不可求。有同学想圣诞节期间去东非,因为那会儿是雨季,虽说近年非洲也是日渐干旱,但是因为天气原因,行程还是会打折扣。

最初制定行程的时候要考虑到非洲之行主要是土路(dirt road)和塞车,花在路上的时间要远远大于google map上告诉的时间,所以不能按欧美road trip来计划,特别是时间紧的情况下,要有取舍。比如我当初考虑行程时,果断划掉了不是很顺路的Amboseli国家公园,虽说那儿可以看到非洲著名的乞力马扎罗山,但是山脉本身并不是十分惊艳,而且看不看得到还要靠运气,路上一来一往两天时间,还是舍掉了。关于行程的制定可以参考一家中文匹卖旅行工作室的行程介绍,总结的比较全,可以根据你的时间取舍。

最后强调的一点是虽然起初行程想象的再好,但实际行程还要根据具体情况调整,比如一天赶路大家都很疲劳了,就没有必要非要要求司机安排傍晚的evenging game drive,去旅馆消遣一下更舒服。这儿贴一下我之前和旅行社制定的行程-英文(通常旅行社为了争取你的生意,一般很少argue),和最终实际执行的行程-中文评论。总的来说,我们是满意的。

CONTRACT BETWEEN KAIRI TOURS AND SAFARIS AND MR. Fufu

Day 0 (8/12): Meet and Greet.

8/12/2014: BA0065 arriving at Nairobi at 21:15pm. Pick up from JKIA Airport and drop off at your Hotel which you have booked. You shall be briefed on your safari by our Airport Representative.
Drop at hotel of your choice in Nairobi

当天机场送到旅馆的司机和Safari Trip导游是两回事。所以就说了一下第二天一早八点导游来接。

Day 1 (8/13): NAIROBI –NAIVASHA
Pick up at the Hotel of your choice
On this day you will have a day trip to either Lake Nakuru or Lake Bogoria depending on where the flamingos will be in August.
Drive back to Naivasha for an overnight stay and dinner at Sopa Lodge
Meal Plan: Lunch, Dinner

最初这家旅行社提议去Hell’s Gate国家公园看怪石,被我据了。直说第一天行程希望以水鸟为主。因为近来Lake Nakuru or Lake Bogoria都被水淹了,火烈鸟都飞走了,所以行程在走的之前不确定。后来当天司机决定还是带我们去远的Lake Bogoria,看到了少许火烈鸟,唯一就是路上遇到暴雨,这一天最后到旅馆天都黑了,司机很累,有些路上疲劳驾驶的隐患。如果你不执着火烈鸟,还是近处的Lake Nakuru就好。路上时间:9am-10am 旅行社付款;10am – 7:30pm 在路上。

Day 2 (8/14): NAIVASHA - MAASAI MARA
After breakfast leave for masai mara and later enjoy an evening game drive between 4p.m and 6 p.m
Accommodation: Mara Sopa Lodge www.sopalodges.com
Meal plan: Breakfast, lunch, Dinner

昨天行程太匆忙,所以Lake Naivasha的游湖安排到今早(另外付钱),非常值得看,因为看到了无数水禽,是打鸟的好机会。之后一路开到MAASAI MARA,包括两个钟的土路。5pm check in旅馆,路上偶遇一些动物,没有刻意安排evening game drive.

Day 3/4 (8/15-16): MASAI MARA GAME RESERVE
Spend the full day game viewing and exploring the park in search of the Big 5 with a picnic lunch with the hippos and crocodiles at the Hippo Pool i.e the Mara River famous for the great migration.
Accommodation: Mara Sopa Lodge. Meal plan: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
*Full day game drive for both days

这两天都是全天的game drive,中午是盒饭。第一天是7am-5pm,基本上所以动物都看到了。还开到了肯坦边界的马赛河,只是角马都已经跑到肯尼亚这面了,没赶上角马过河。但是还是看得非常过瘾。第二天是8am-3pm,略平淡。我们的司机有些体力不支。

Day 5: (8/17): MARA-ISEBANIA BOARDER-SERENGETI NATIONAL PARK
After break leave for drop off at Isebania border. You will find a vehicle waiting for you when you arrive.

Meal plan: Breakfast, Lunch
Accommodation: Serengeti Sopa Lodge Meal: Dinner
Game drive on the way

今天全天赶路,早上6am出发,路上看到了漂亮的日出景色。11am 顺利过境,和坦桑尼亚的导游兼司机交接,晚6pm check in我们的旅馆。全程土路。

Day 6: (8/18): SERENGETI NATIONAL PARK
Accommodation: Serengeti Sopa Lodge. Meal plan: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Full day game drive

守猎8am – 6:30pm. 一早晨近距离接触了一群大象家族和狮子家族后,剩下全天守着两只相隔不到一迈的Cheetah和Leopard,两只大猫睡得是昏天黑地,最后终于被我们等到了Leopard从树上下来的全过程。

Day 7: (8/19) SERENGETI - NGORONGORO
Accommodation: Ngorongoro Sopa lodge. All the lodges are located at the rim of the crater and not inside since it is a conservation area.
Meal plan: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner
Afternoon game drive

最后一次game drive. 7:30am 上路,中午左右抵达Ngorongoro Crate天坑,下午主要近距离守着一群狮子家族(三只公狮子,五只母狮子和四只幼师),拍了许多私房美照。

Day 8: (8/20)NGORONGORO – ARUSHA
Drop off at airport Meal plan: Breakfast, Lunch

Arusha机场坐小飞机飞桑岛,晚点一个多钟。机场买了些木刻,后来发现是最便宜的地方。

Prices as mentioned include:
* Ground transport in a comfortable safari vehicle for game viewing, photography and touring
* Full board accommodation * All park entrance fees to include government taxes
* Service of an English speaking professional driver/guide
* All game drives as will be detailed in the itinerary
* Bottled water each for the Safari * Start of Safari in Nairobi and end in Arusha
* Transfer between the airport and your hotel in Nairobi Not Included: Money for tips, soft drinks or alcoholic drinks, visit to the Masai village
I hope the above is OK with you and I confirm that this is what we have agreed on.

— 以上是Safari Tour Contract —

Day 8 (con): 桑岛机场取车,自驾(车行老板领路到了石头城的旅馆,否则估计永远也找不到)。

晚上在桑岛唯一一家海鲜中餐馆Pagoda大朵快颐,还碰到了当地援建的老总们,聊得非常的过瘾。顺便领略了石头城的黄昏和夜景。

Day 9: 上午租乌篷船龟岛一游,雨过天晴,被海的颜色惊呆了。中午犹豫一下,又去了海鲜中餐馆大吃了一顿,重新开车上路,历时两个钟抵达桑岛东面最美的Paje海岸,又被我们的海景房惊呆了。晚上在南半球星空下,从沙滩上走的当地Crystal Resort里的泰国餐馆Thai/Sushi Fusion填肚子,改良版的泰餐日餐,还可以,但不要期望太大。

对了,下午刚到的时候我去沙滩找beach boy订了第二天一早的看海豚活动(两个钟)。

Day 10: 清晨6am 跟车去南面Menai Bay 看海豚,与豚共舞。回来发呆,看海。
下午自驾去北面的The Rock 和Chwaka Bay转了转,然后回来去Blue Oyster Hotel Terrace吃海鲜大餐,可惜味道比之前的中餐差好多。

Day 11: 一早开车回桑岛机场,中午飞机飞回内罗毕。安排了司机开车首都半日游,主要逛了Giraffe Centre(推荐),Karen Blixen House (没去,时间不够了),当地超市(买红茶和咖啡-推荐),Maasai Market集市(不推荐,木刻纪念品不要在首都买,贵的离谱,小贩难缠),最后一站是Pampa Grill Lavingtonm (巴西烤肉),人均消费$28,超值,但是烤肉水准跟北美还是有些区别,色拉吧种类少一些。推荐。

晚上11:50pm的飞机,需要提前三个钟到机场。

完美行程。

参考资料: 东非的功课

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走进东非 - 旅馆篇

我做旅行功课的本领之一是能从海量信息中迅速找到自己想要的行程。所以我每次的功课贴东非的功课多是各处看到的中文游记和老美的trip report和论坛信息的剪贴,看似杂乱,却总是一个top down的设计过程。东非之行的行程尤其重要,因为你想看什么,去什么公园,和最终旅行社的报价是息息相关的。在找旅行社的报价初期自己就要有个很清楚的计划。当然在跟旅行社的邮件交流过程中,也可以根据他们靠谱的建议适当进行调整。如何判断是否靠谱,这就是看你功课的功力了。

关于我如何从三百多家肯尼亚旅行社中找到我认为性价比适合的Safari Tour,请看我之前的文章《我是如何安排东非Safari Tour》

这一路下来,我的行程安排得到了小伙伴的一致肯定和好评。此行行程的主要亮点是:

1. 旅馆选择的是性价比高的中档旅馆,可以保证每天得到充分的休息,而且有些旅馆本身就非常有看点儿,是观景拍照的好地方。

Safari tour的旅馆和三餐都是包括在Package里面的,而桑岛的旅馆和内罗毕的第一晚都是通过研究在booking.com上订的。参考东非旅馆的主要网站是tripadvisor.com的评论, 略微参考booking.com的评分评论。

之前的功课里看到,肯尼亚和坦桑尼亚国家公园中,“最著名的中高端连锁酒店集团有SERENA ,SOPA,几乎每个保护区里都能见到他们的连锁酒店;坦桑尼亚还有个比较著名的较便宜酒店连锁集团WILDLIFE。”所以我此行旅馆都是以这个标准订的。唯一要指出的是暑期旺季,性价比好的热门旅馆走的非常快,所以机票搞定之后要迅速联系旅行社谈好价格,把旅馆订好。我之初要求全程SOPA酒店,一开始旅行社说SOPA已经订满了,推荐我了几家其它的。肯尼亚这面的推荐我看看,还是觉得SOPA好,要求他们想想办法,结果我们从waitting list上还是最终排到了。坦桑尼亚就有些惊吓了,因为是到了那面导游才告诉我们旅馆不是SOPA而是SERENA,当时没有心里准备,对导游说的坦桑尼亚SERENA要档次稍高半信半疑,后来住了才发现果然不错。回来查邮件,的确坦桑尼亚的地陪旅行社有来邮件提过这事,只是当时不是订好的肯尼亚旅行社邮件,其余的一律当成spam了。总之一句话,旺季旅馆,越早动手约好。

Khweza Bed and Breakfast
Ranked #28 of 157 Nairobi B&B and Inns
第一晚的内罗毕旅馆, 经济型,$85/night 三人房,包早餐。内罗毕的旅馆很不便宜,因为我们只住一晚,属于走过路过,看到tripadvisor上评价算高,就订了。早餐在露台上,还不错,可惜旅馆靠近交通要道,清晨四点就已经车水马龙了,非常吵。所以不推荐。

– Safari Tour –

Lake Naivasha Sopa Resort
Ranked #6 of 22 Specialty Lodging in Naivasha,
强力推荐,此行公园中住的最好的一家,性价比很高。晚餐非洲之夜自助餐也是此行最好的一处,旅馆里面晚上和清晨都有动物游荡,包括斑马、河马和长颈鹿等,人来人往需要保安护送。因为旅途刚开始,对看动物非常兴奋,很享受。

Mara Sopa Lodge
Ranked #77 of 111 Specialty Lodging in Maasai Mara National Reserve
这间值得商榷,没有想象中的Luxury,的确排名也不是很靠前,看来大伙的感觉差不多。主要问题是用电和洗澡热水都是限时的,住了三晚,好多时候洗澡水都不热,晚餐自助没有Lake Naivasha那家好。特色是resort中有一群猴,颇为活泼。还有几个马赛阿姐在类似部落的房子旁摆摊。有一晚安排了马赛舞表演,还有就是每晚十点他们会在观景台下面扔一些当天厨房的厨余下水什么的,吸引一些斑鬣狗(Hyena)来吃。

Mbuzi Mawe Serena Camp
Ranked #35 of 71 Specialty Lodging in Serengeti National Park
这家一开始最惊恐,因为没有心理准备旅馆被换成Serena系列,又听说是帐篷,还以为被黑了。结果到了一处公园的高坡上才发现,这就是传说中的Luxury tent,内部房间非常宽敞,热水wifi 24小时通畅,很有调调。晚餐绝对高大上,习惯了之前的巴菲,这回儿换成了全程服务的5 course大餐,服务甚好,以至于最后都不好意思不多点些饮料算小费了。唯一缺点是帐篷晚上睡觉的风声很大,其实外面还是微风徐徐。所以住一晚尝尝鲜就好,不易多住。推荐。

Serengeti Serena Safari Lodge
Ranked #43 of 71 Specialty Lodging in Serengeti National Park
这家旅馆的特色是装饰成茅草房的屋顶,但是房间内部还是非常宽敞现代。因为在高处,可以看到Serengeti National Park平原的景色。晚餐巴菲,之后有旅馆的非洲妹子表演(不必太期盼),入夜需要保安送行。中规中矩,推荐。

Ngorongoro Wildlife Lodge
Ranked #3 of 3 Hotels in Ngorongoro Conservation Area
这家属于正式旅馆风格,不是resort lodge性质,特色是房间的景色绝佳,正对着下面的Ngorongoro天坑。旅馆的装饰布置非常注重细节,有feel,尤其以晚间的灯光布置,非常有特色。不足的地方是晚餐虽然布置的好看,但是巴菲选择单调了些,味道也差少少。推荐。

– 桑岛 –

Asmini Palace Hotel
Ranked #23 of 30
$130/night 三人房,$110/night双人房,包早餐。石头城里的旅馆都很贵,这家算是经济型的。地点好,在石头城靠近海边广场的地方,走路五分钟就到。房间装饰古扑,屋子够大,推荐。我们去的时候柜台说信用卡机器坏了,后来说了一阵,还是留下了卡号,没有给现金。最后一查帐,非常公平,连坦桑尼亚常见的5%信用卡额外charge都没收。

Zanzibar Ocean Blue
Ranked #4 of 10 Paje B&B and Inns
$160/night的海景房,包早餐,整个旅馆只有八间房,非常舒适安静,房间非常新,算是此行捡到的宝。之所以能抢到,是因为游客对它家还不是很熟悉。在Paje海岸靠北一些。唯一问题是因我们在booking.com上订的确定之后,它后来又试图和我们联系多收额外三人房的一份钱,结果我没有注意到邮件,等我们check in的时候居然没有我们的订房记录。幸好当天没有订满,最后也顺利入住了。最后可以收信用卡,但是要多收5%的银行费用。强力推荐。估计以后会涨价。

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2013在路上 - 瑞士奥地利捷克自驾游26-2 巴德伊舍的甜点铺

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June 28, 2014in:

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2013在路上 - 瑞士奥地利捷克自驾游26-1 月亮湖的教堂

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(这篇是虫儿写的,唯一一篇。。。)

离开了萨尔斯堡,去哈尔施塔特(Hallstatt)的路上, 下一个想停一下的目的地是Mondsee,中文名字是月亮湖。奥地利萨尔茨湖区,童话般的小镇星罗棋布,月亮湖之所以有名,是因为音乐之声中拍摄结婚场面的教堂:Basilica St.Michael。

蜿蜒曲折行驶在瑞士和奥地利的山间, 脑海里总是会回荡着玛丽亚在电影里刚出场时的歌声。

The hills are alive with the sound of music
With songs they have sung for a thousand years
The hills fill my heart with the sound of music

And falls over stones on its way
To sing through the night
Like a lark who is learning to pray

给力的GPS上找不到St. Michael教堂, 我们只好把小镇Mondsee作为目的地。一小时的车程, 吃着冰激凌, 很快就到。 星期天小镇上好像有什么活动,靠近湖的一侧很热闹, 一个大草甸上停满了车,GPS也没有了进一步的指示,我们只好手搭凉棚用力观看, 透过绿油油的栗子树叶, 看到两个高高的塔楼。嗯,有教堂就好办了,小镇的中心准保在那儿。

穿过几条小巷,午后三点的阳光洒满整洁的青石板路, 小镇每一栋房子都漆成不同颜色, 配上月亮湖这诗情画意的名字, 色彩缤纷的寂静小镇就像童话世界。

塔楼是小镇中心最高建筑,教堂淡黄色得外墙和其他镇中心房子相比显得朴实无华。我们正四处找牌子来确认教堂的名字,就听到钟声响起, 教堂大门打开,走出一对新郎新娘,喜气洋洋的娶亲大部队都跟在后面。我们凑过去沾沾喜气,虫儿赶紧抓了两个大妈, 一手指着纸上St.Michael教堂的名字,一手指向教堂塔楼,

“Is this St. Michael Church?”

大妈甲和大妈乙用德文商量了几句, 说come come。虫儿和小乖一头雾水,就被带到了一牧师跟前, 虫儿还是那个老问题:

“Is this St. Michael Church?”

高大帅气的牧师身着一身白袍,在阳光下浑身散发着圣洁的光辉,面部表情十分的平易近人,湛蓝深邃的眼睛真诚地望着小虫儿这迷途的羔羊, 微笑着说,。。。 妹黑欧。。。 不是此处省略几百字,而是全都德语,虫儿这文盲明显没有听懂, 指着打下来的名字又问了一遍, 牧师耐心的指着身后的教堂, 点点头:妹黑欧,妹黑欧。。。

呃,好吧,虫儿和牧师谢过, 决定进去一探究竟。 没想到这外表平淡的教堂却有着一颗绚丽的心, 玫瑰红般的颜色,金壁辉煌的浮雕, 极尽奢华。仿佛是电影里的昨天,刚结束的婚礼留下了一地的花瓣, 想来上校和玛丽亚也是这样吧。我们坐在教堂的长凳上默默地感受着,心中丝丝幸福和兴奋,时间关系,小坐了片刻依依不舍地起身了。

朝圣者拜山成功。 飘飘然出了教堂, 再上路的时候,查点儿乐极生悲。虫儿指挥着弗弗从20厘米高的“倒鸭子”上直开下去, 差点撞坏租车大梁。嗯,对方“倒鸭子”没问题。

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