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2013在路上 - 瑞士奥地利捷克自驾游 21-4 趋吉

清晨醒了,一片宁静。大家都在,还好还好。

有惊无险,很妖的一晚。

去前台,意外发现这家旅馆非常有历史感,走廊的装饰、屏风、家具都是古香古色。

看介绍,旅馆也算是百年老店了。

前台开了,不见了昨夜的守夜人,换了一个明媚的姑娘。

问问房间价格,140欧元,包早餐。

感恩、知足、惜福。

早餐也很不错,各种果仁面包奶酪还是果汁什么的,热热的煎蛋捲,味道很好。

看看旅馆的位置,才发现我们这儿其实是在因斯布鲁克对面的山巅,一个称作Igls的小镇,冬天滑雪的好去处。

旅馆外面,清幽。行人很少,远处有一片绿地,似乎是个小公园。

因为昨晚的折腾,我对因斯布鲁克也失去了兴趣,原本城里的景色也不多,也就是玛丽亚·特蕾西亚大街和所谓的黄金屋顶。

还是在旅馆周围悠哉悠哉,享受一下这份宁静吧。

吃了早餐,重新装好行李,我们在下山的路上远眺了一眼与之无缘的因斯布鲁克,果断地开往下一站。

“至诚之道,可以前知。吾等问于高明之人,当趋吉避凶。”

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October 13, 2013in:

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2013在路上 - 瑞士奥地利捷克自驾游 21-3 泰来

大雄最终还是平安地回来了,然而这妖里妖气的旅馆无论如何是没法住了。

和大雄他们商量了一下,我们决定借助车载GPS的附近旅馆搜索,再找一家旅馆安顿下来再说。一堆杂乱的当地小旅馆德文名单中,我们终于认出一家熟悉的Best Western。

重新锁定GPS上路。

蹊跷的是,开着开着,上山的路居然被栏杆挡起来了,收费两欧。不知缘由。

狼狈地在车里翻来翻去,找出两枚硬币投币才又上了山。

Best Western这一家看上去比前面的恐怖旅馆要顺眼许多。只是这会儿十一点多了,灯也都灭了。我和叮当跑到前台,没有人影。

我们正四处着急,忽然看到一个阿姐从一间办公室摸样的屋里出来,准备回家的样子。我们急忙拦住她,问有没有空房。

说了好一阵,阿姐没什么反应,一直指着手表说着德文。

原来阿姐只是负责清扫的,不通英文。

不过一阵鸡同鸭讲连比划,她也猜出来我们想住店了。看看我们一脸的无奈,她最后还是掏出手机帮我们打了个电话,说是问问经理可不可以过来。

“经理多久可以到?”

阿姨嘟哝出一个数字,小伙伴们一起猜,最后说可能是十分钟。

没多久,一个漂亮女生被一个年轻人开着当地少见的SUV,轰驰而来。女生就是电话里的经理,英文很不错。她说,也是我们运气,她正在旅馆附近的朋友家里开party呢,接到电话,好心地过来了。

我们算好运吗?

很显然不是。

因为下一个就是坏消息。女生说,今晚整个Best Western旅馆所有的房间都订满了,连一间空的也没有。

绝望。难道真的要露宿街头?

“可以帮我们问问周围的旅馆吗?”

女生看着我们老的老小的小,一群落魄像,同情地点了点头,在计算机里查询了一阵,在纸条上写下一个地址。

“Good luck!”

重新上车,输地址,折腾过去,最终这家名字是Sporthotel IGLS的旅馆拯救了我们这群迷失的羔羊。

旅馆的前台有个守夜人,旅馆还有空余的房间。虽说这会儿旅馆订房系统都关了,守夜人还是帮我们用他的公用门卡开了房间。

阿弥陀佛。其余的明早再说吧。

真正搬进房间躺上床的时候,已经是凌晨一点了。

想想这一晚的惊悚奇遇,我暗自对各路神仙祷告了一番,在疲惫中迷糊过去。

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2013在路上 - 瑞士奥地利捷克自驾游 21-2 惊魂

终于,好不容易看到一家还开着的加油站。

我一个急刹车停过去,黑车居然靠边也跟着停了。我让虫儿把车门锁好,自己准备一个箭步冲入看似有人的加油站再说。

突然黑车门也开了,冲出一个人。。。

我浑身绷紧,拳头紧握。

黑车人居然冲我大叫。

定睛一看,原来是大雄?!

长吁一口气。。。惊悚变成了喜剧。

原来大雄他们也按照GPS的指示开到荒山野岭去了。神奇的是他们居然在附近找到一个当地老太太,据说常常有人找那间旅馆走丢了,更难得的是,老太太还愿意帮忙指路。

后来他们误打误撞,居然看到前面一辆车像是我们,于是就一直跟上来想和我们打招呼。

我朝她们车看过去。叮当在里面不耐烦地摆摆手。。。

大雄说,老太太还在上面,快走吧。

我有些觉得惊奇。当时如果我们两辆车相差不久的话,在那蛇形土路上是不可能错过的。

只是当时着急,没多想。匆匆忙忙加了半缸油,就跟着大雄他们了。

又开了十几分钟,开到一处山坡上,孤零零的竖着一栋三层小楼房,却是漆黑一片,只有二楼的屋里还隐约透出些灯光。

大雄的车停了。叮当她们一大家子都下来了,和我说,就是这里了。

回头,大雄一个急拐,去送好心的老太太回家。

至始至终,我都没有见到老太太。。。
。。。。

旅馆的大门紧闭,黑夜里看不出任何标志。我们借着手机的灯光,在门前按门铃,却听不到任何声响。

我和叮当在旅馆周围转了转,旁边有个院门,几张凉椅,侧门却也是紧闭的。

无奈只好回到前门,用力敲,怎么敲也不开。整栋楼似乎没有任何人气。敲到最后,连二楼的灯光都灭了。

叮当找到预订的电话,打过去,店主完全不接。

我们困在这荒山野岭了。看看时间,十点二十分。

这时候的旅馆,像极了电影惊魂记(Psycho)中那栋孤零零的贝茨旅馆。

幸好的是,我们是一群人,而不是孤独的一个人。

只是大雄却还没有回来。。。

Posted:
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October 12, 2013in:

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2013在路上 - 瑞士奥地利捷克自驾游 21-1 迷失

从菲森小镇逛完天鹅堡,吃了一顿大餐,又顺路普兰湖停了一下,重新上路的时候天已经快黑了。看看时间,九点钟的样子。

在菲森和叮当她们停车停在不一样的地方,所以去因斯布鲁克是各自开各自的,这会儿已经失去联系了。我特意看看今晚的旅馆地址,确认GPS输入正确。想想也就不过一个钟的路,应该没什么大问题。

只是依旧是山路,崎岖环绕。车窗外是茫茫夜色。我一路打着大灯在山间盘旋,路上没有什么车,孤零零的。我心里暗想:“也好,起码不用担心狭窄山路上迎面会车了。”

一路颠簸中,小乖和虫儿都不说话。

因斯布鲁克这儿的山区地势比较低,周围的雪山到夏天雪都融化了,只是没有白雪覆盖的山头都是光秃秃的,没有任何植被。这会儿夜色下,灰白的山脊一道一道的,透出一股狰狞和古怪。

渐渐,总算开出了山里,来到了所谓的高速路。因斯布鲁克城市的指示牌在路边一晃而过,前方,渐渐有些灯光。

我不由松了口气,看看虫儿说:“有十分钟应该到了。”乖在后排有些迷糊着了。

然而GPS的指示却没有把我们引到城里,而是继续朝前。

之前做功课的时候,因斯布鲁克的这家旅馆我和叮当订的非常随意,因为只是一走一过,看着booking.com给出的因斯布鲁克旅馆,选了一家相对便宜的,并没有在地图上多留意它的具体位置。想着跟着GPS走,会有什么问题呢?

终于,下了高速。

问题却出在GPS指引的路越来越荒。

拐了几拐,很快没入林间小道,开着开着,完全变成土路了。

窄窄的一条土路。一边是陡峭的山坡,一边是黑漆漆的密林。要命的是,只能往前开,因为没有丝毫可以转身的余地。

虫儿有些紧张起来。我则纳闷,难得又订到之前类似瑞士住的Saxeten自然村了吗?为什么路会这么破呢?

黑咕隆咚,看不出任何人烟了。我小心的瞪大眼睛,生怕一不留神车胎被路旁的树枝扎了。

突然,前面一处叉路。左手边居然是一条上山的土路。不是一般的坡度,陡峭狭窄,荒无人烟。看这架势,我的车技在夜色里是万万开不上去的。

只好顺着右边土路接着开,没多远,一处人造的涵洞,我不得不停了下来。不能再开了。

乖儿也惊醒了,“爸爸,到了吗?”

我一时有些茫然: “坐好了,我去看看”

让虫儿和乖在车里坐好,自己借着车的大灯,四下看了警惕地一圈。荒山野岭,涵洞前面还是土路,而上面像是条铁轨,隐隐远处隐隐有一座荒芜人间的废弃火车站台。天色完全黑了,根本看不清楚。

我回到车里,仔细看了看GPS,又重新确认了booking.com上旅馆的地址,没有丝毫错误。我用经纬度又输入了一遍,还是指出同样的地方,就是这地儿。

我心中一时奔腾过千万头羊驼。。。。

最要命的是看看油表,这一路开下来,油已经见底了。

得,不管如何,今晚不能上演聊斋志异。还是先开出山间土路再说吧。

小心翼翼地调了个头,我忧心忡忡地看着油表重新上路。

终于开出了土路。。。

然而却没开多久,在一个拐弯处,突然后面飘出一辆车。

虫儿盯着后视镜,小声说,我们似乎被盯上了。

我看了看,果然,一辆不知从何处闪出来的黑车,这时亦步亦趋地跟着我们。我并到左lane,后车跟到左lane。我来的右急转,后车也跟着转过来。怎么甩都甩不掉。

“按原计划去加油站。”

我不由自主地按了按太阳穴,这是要按好莱坞大片的剧情演吗?

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2013在路上 - 瑞士奥地利捷克自驾游 20-3 普兰湖

普兰湖(Plansee)离菲森小镇不远,在我们回因斯布鲁克的路上,算是当地人的一处景点,游客知之甚少,我也是无意中看游记看到的。这会儿已经快九点了,天色马上要黑起来。虫儿有些犹豫。不过我还是心痒痒的,劝她说现在吃的太饱了,消消食也是好的,更何况那儿还有冰激凌可以吃。

走了一段大路,然后沿着山路开进去一小段。车不是很多,跟着GPS开到功课里提到的湖边旅馆,发现冰激凌的生意早就关门了。

还好普兰湖没有让我们失望。

爱在日落黄昏时。湖水的颜色呈现出一种翠绿的冷色调。难得的湖水很平很平,没有一丝涟漪,宛如一面绿色的镜子,映衬着湖岸的一切。湖很大,我们这儿看到的,只是小小的一角,不过也没有力气继续前行了。

我们停车坐在湖边,就这样静静地看着夕阳映红 了山顶,渐渐地,颜色暗下去,世界变得简单起来。对岸有一家人在岸上燃起一堆篝火,炊烟渺渺,火光忽明忽暗,在夜色中像一只精灵。

倦鸟归林,我们都有些乏了,是时候去找我们今晚的旅馆了。

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October 8, 2013in:

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2013在路上 - 瑞士奥地利捷克自驾游 20-2 不一样的海鲜意粉

忙叨了一天,也就在来天鹅堡的路上胡乱塞了些三明治,这会儿肚子都饿了。之前看游记,有朋友推荐菲森小镇的一家意大利餐厅。虽说在德国这儿吃意大利餐,听起来似乎不是很靠谱,但是游记里推荐的主菜很夸张,说是焗海鲜意粉(Baked Seafood Pasta) 两人份多得足够四五个人吃,不由人不好奇。得,就这儿先吃饱肚子再赶路吧。

餐厅的地址在我们的GPS上显示的似乎不太准确,大雄的车载GPS倒是定位精确。不管如何,GPS还是把我们引到了菲森小镇的镇中心。这一片都是古老的青石板路,车辆限行的。我们也不清楚,开着车在人堆里东问西问,才好不容易找到了这家餐馆,Ristorante Pizzeria il Pescatore。没想到餐馆在当地非常有名,必须预订才有座位。好在凑巧,后院里留给散客的一张大桌子只坐了两个老外,这会儿拼成一桌,被我们包圆了。

没地方停车。按照餐馆的推荐,要把车停到河对岸的一个公园里,然后饿着肚子走回来,还一时间差点又找不到餐馆了。总之等我坐下来的时候,肚子愈发饿了。还好虫儿她们把菜都点好了。我们三个人就按照推荐点了焗海鲜意粉。叮当她们人多,除了这个还点了几样其它的意大利面。

过了一阵其它的意大利面先上来了,样子普通,似乎没那么神奇。

直到伙计们端出来这个大家伙。。。

先入眼帘的是一个银盘子,上置一个硕大的陶瓷鱼碗,碗上满满地盖着一个大饼,细看似乎像披萨饼坯倒扣过来一样烤出来的面食。伙头用刀子在一侧切出一道小口,顿时飘出一阵海鲜的香味。然后沿着鱼口碗将面坯挖开,里面是满满的海鲜意大利面,香气扑鼻。

伙头用大夹子把面慢慢捞出来,悠悠地分到每个人的盘子里。这过程让人有些着急,硕大的碗视觉效果惊人,不管味道如何,看起来就让人过瘾。这么一大盆,不过欧元二十几刀,让我们终于有从天堂回到人间烟火的感觉。

在一片赞美声中,伙头得意洋洋地走了,留下两大盆海鲜意粉。我们急不可耐地吃起来。味道很不错,特别是这种意粉焗法,海鲜的味道都完全渗透到意大利面里面去了,而且留有汤汁,海鲜的火候也恰到好吃,不会太柴。唯一可惜的就是里面的海鲜内容不多,青口、虾仁和濑尿虾都是瘦瘦的,看来主要是用来借味道了。不管如何,我们三个人干掉这么一大盆面, 加上上面的披萨饼坯,果然吃得饱饱的。赞!

饭后溜达着回停车场,我们穿行在小镇的街道。青石板路,小小的许愿池,周围的房子都涂成五颜六色的浅色调,夕阳下非常的温馨。没想到,欧洲连德国的小镇都这样的温暖迷人,酒足饭饱,越发让人慵懒。

Tips:
Ristorante Pizzeria il Pescatore
Franziskanergasse 13, 87629 Fussen, Bavaria, Germany
www.ilpescatore-fuessen.de/

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October 7, 2013in:

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2013在路上 - 瑞士奥地利捷克自驾游 20 新旧天鹅堡

新旧天鹅堡坐落在德国小镇菲森Fusssen,非常靠近奥地利的边界。德奥边界在这儿,犬牙交错,没有什么正式关卡,一不留神就开到德国境内了。对了,从列支敦士登进入奥地利境内的时候,需要在附近的加油站购买奥地利的高速票。我们自驾这一路,瑞士、奥地利、捷克都需要高速票,而德国就大方多了。高速票天数不同价格不同,我们都是买最便宜的就够用了。当然,瑞士高速票租车的时候自然就包括了。

去天鹅堡的路是山路,比想象中的费时间,结果赶到菲森的时候,都快下午四点了。望着远处的新天鹅堡方向一路开过去,按网上推荐停在P4停车场,后来发现这不是最好的选择,因为停车场虽然靠近上山的公车,但是购买参观天鹅堡票的售票处还在山坡下面。

天气热极了,绝对有摄氏三十度了。度假的时候想着欧洲的夏天避开意大利,瑞士奥地利一路应该是凉凉的,气温正好。可惜运气不好,正好赶上一阵热浪。前几天在瑞士住在里,还没有这么热。这会儿,酷暑难耐,短短的一小段路就走的大汗淋漓。

赶到售票处的时候才发现,去新天鹅堡内部参观的旅游团今天全部都售光了,只剩下山下的旧天鹅堡。看来是来的太晚了。没有什么好办法,行程这一段设计的太紧张了,否则这儿住一晚就好了。有个秘籍是天鹅堡的售票是可以网上预订的,只是这些旅游团是严格按时间算的,你需要比预约进堡时间提前1小时取票。如果你误了的话估计票就作废了。所以说,网上预订虽然省时间,但是也需要你对时间能严格掌控的情况下。很显然,对于我们这样长途跋涉的不适合。

虽然内部参观的tour没有了,但是上山的公车还开,只是人上人海,快赶上国内的五一出游了。等了一阵,人快烤焦了,才等到公车。有些人懒得等,坐马车上山,感觉浪漫些,只是马身上的味道实在大了一点。

公车是停在天鹅堡对面的玛丽安桥,依旧是人挤人,老中似乎在这一旅游点儿的比例其高,叮当居然还巧遇她们的邻居了。之前只知道人家也是欧洲游,行程不是很一样,没想到在这个时空碰上来,还有更巧的事情吗?从另一个侧面,能说明老中来的很多吗?

玛丽安桥修的还是很结实,这么多游客站了几百年,居然还好好的。贡献一个窍门,就是一直往桥的尽头走,离桥的入口越远,游人也稍稍少一些。

风景还是值得赞的。我们的好运气是2013年新天鹅堡刚刚完成长达N年的修缮工程,脚手架什么的都拆掉了,这会儿看到的是完完整整漂漂亮亮的城堡了。一提起新天鹅堡的德文,名字绕口,大家都会不约而同提及就是那迪斯尼乐园中的白雪公主城堡。这会儿远远看去,不得不感慨,巴伐利亚这片广阔土地上的众多城堡之中(一说总数高达14000个),新天鹅堡的美是和童话世界想象中的城堡有着共通的。

可惜周围的凡人太多了,天气太热了,我们不能免俗的拍了拍大头照,就离开了玛丽安桥。

沿着去城堡的林间小路,前面的一对年青夫妇带着个八九岁的小朋友,听口音有些四川那儿的。爸爸正在给小朋友讲城堡的历史。

“过去有个国王,小的时候住在山下的黄石旧城堡里。。。”

“然后嘞?”小男孩问。

“他长大的时候想给自己修个新的城堡,然后就设计了这个新天鹅堡。”

“然后嘞?”

“然后他就花了好多钱。”

“然后嘞?”

“然后他就不学无术,整天玩儿,老百姓就很不喜欢他。”显然,爸爸领会着寓言故事要有教育意义,“然后有一天,他就莫名其妙地死掉了。所以啊,你不能不好好学习。”

“然后嘞?”小男孩很有追问精神。

我忍不住插嘴,“然后就没有然后了”。

巴伐利亚王国的国王路德维希二世就是故事的主角。说的没有错,这显然是一个有着浪漫和童话色彩,充满艺术气息的年青人,不幸的是家族赋予了他国王的名分和担子。他的一生,受制于朝政中长老,又无法忍受宫廷礼仪和权力争斗,痴迷于自己的喜好却因过度挥霍而被当时民众反对。感情生活也是悲剧色彩,和他一起度过童年的表姑茜茜公主却在他爱情懵懂的年纪远嫁奥地利,而后他又突然在婚礼前夜解除与茜茜妹妹索菲公主的婚事,从此一生未娶。年纪轻轻于40岁就莫名地死在湖中,至今原因不明。只不过当年遭到民众强烈反对的新天鹅堡却在他死后开放公众,如今成为小镇菲森的主要收入来源,这算是悲剧逆袭吗?

后来去基姆湖(Chiemsee)男人岛参观的时候,发现岛上及其奢华的海伦基姆宫也是这哥们设计建造的,还有巴伐利亚州西南部上阿玛高附近的林德霍夫宫,而且这两座宫殿都有模仿凡尔赛宫的风格。设计华丽,却也掏空了国库。如此看来,路德维希二世的艺术造诣无可厚非,但性格的确有些偏执。成也萧何,败也萧何。

回到新天鹅堡的正门,近距离看看城堡的细节,大理石的外墙,高耸的塔楼,家族的徽章,处处都是设计精品。去城堡里面参观的队伍排成行,我们却有些无奈。买了些漂亮的明信片和纪念品,恋恋不舍下山了。

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October 3, 2013in:

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2013在路上 - 瑞士奥地利捷克自驾游 19 走过路过列支敦士登

列支敦士登亲王国,夹在瑞士与奥地利两国之间,官方语言是德语,迄今仍维持君主立宪制,人均国内生产总值高达60,000欧元,国家格言:“为了上帝,大公和祖国”。

亲,以上信息均来自维基百科。如果不是这次路过,这个王国的概念我丝毫没有。因为国家名字本身就难记,我还老是把它和卢森堡小国混成一团。

列支敦士登对外以其旅游和邮票闻名。我在路上还和虫儿叮当她们讨论,一个国家靠邮票销售能赚出几个钱?这会儿查维基百科,证实了我的想法。其实,列支敦士登小国寡民、缺乏天然资源,二战之后之所以能从一个原本是以农业为主的山区小国,发展至现在成为全世界富有国家之一的主要策略,完全是和邻居兼盟国瑞士学的,就是国家宣布完全中立,经济上承袭瑞士国际洗钱运动中心的地位,商业税率低廉吸引周边欧洲国家公司成为避税天堂。有了这几样,不富裕也难啊。

由于行程的巧妙设计,我们今天可以从因特拉肯(Interlaken)一路开过来,不过三个钟的行程。今晚住在因斯布鲁克(Innsbruck),离列支敦士登也不到三个钟的高速路。只是做功课的时候还有些贪心,想着德奥边界的天鹅堡要么这会儿绕道去,要么回程的时候从慕尼黑绕道去,怎么都不太顺。想想这时精力尚足,三个星期玩下来再去逛,估计都厌掉了,所以就把天鹅堡顺路加进来,这样的话,今天的时间就是我们全部行程中最忙的一天了。全程开车时间按google地图的说法就是六个多钟,具体开下来还要长一些。

离开阿尔卑斯山区,告别了迷人的湖水。瑞士靠近奥地利这一面,山势渐渐变缓,慢慢地,完全变成了丘陵地带。跟着GPS的指向,不知不觉我们进入了列支敦士登国境。

列支敦士登是个绝好的歇脚点儿。我们把车直接停在它的著名中央邮局门口,大伙儿都着急上厕所,找了一圈才发现邮局旁的楼梯外面就是。叮当她们一大群人跑进邮局去买邮票明信片当纪念品,我一个人去邮局对面的访客中心逛逛,问了问去大公古堡的路线,外面随便转转,这儿似乎是市中心的广场,有许多非常有趣的现代雕塑。

大公古堡其实就在邮局上面的山顶,在下面可以看到一些端倪,只是开车上去还要绕一下。古堡的正式名字是瓦都兹城堡(Schloss Valuz),迄今也有700多年的历史了,是历代列支敦士登公爵的领地和王室居住地,一直到现在,因此是不对外开放的。据说一年一次,公爵会请当地的居民去他家里面喝酒,但很显然不是今天。

开到公爵的城堡,附近有个小停车场,慕名而来的好事游客还不少。除了城堡,这儿还是登高眺远、行山健身的好去处。古堡门口简单地挂了个牌子,我猜是闲人免近的意思,没有守卫没有安保,难怪网上有人戏言,这是你这辈子能接近王室家族最近的地方。

列支敦士登·亲·王国。亲,偶也算走过路过见识过了。

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October 2, 2013in: