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2013在路上 - 瑞士奥地利捷克自驾游26-2 巴德伊舍的甜点铺

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June 28, 2014in:

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2013在路上 - 瑞士奥地利捷克自驾游26-1 月亮湖的教堂

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(这篇是虫儿写的,唯一一篇。。。)

离开了萨尔斯堡,去哈尔施塔特(Hallstatt)的路上, 下一个想停一下的目的地是Mondsee,中文名字是月亮湖。奥地利萨尔茨湖区,童话般的小镇星罗棋布,月亮湖之所以有名,是因为音乐之声中拍摄结婚场面的教堂:Basilica St.Michael。

蜿蜒曲折行驶在瑞士和奥地利的山间, 脑海里总是会回荡着玛丽亚在电影里刚出场时的歌声。

The hills are alive with the sound of music
With songs they have sung for a thousand years
The hills fill my heart with the sound of music

And falls over stones on its way
To sing through the night
Like a lark who is learning to pray

给力的GPS上找不到St. Michael教堂, 我们只好把小镇Mondsee作为目的地。一小时的车程, 吃着冰激凌, 很快就到。 星期天小镇上好像有什么活动,靠近湖的一侧很热闹, 一个大草甸上停满了车,GPS也没有了进一步的指示,我们只好手搭凉棚用力观看, 透过绿油油的栗子树叶, 看到两个高高的塔楼。嗯,有教堂就好办了,小镇的中心准保在那儿。

穿过几条小巷,午后三点的阳光洒满整洁的青石板路, 小镇每一栋房子都漆成不同颜色, 配上月亮湖这诗情画意的名字, 色彩缤纷的寂静小镇就像童话世界。

塔楼是小镇中心最高建筑,教堂淡黄色得外墙和其他镇中心房子相比显得朴实无华。我们正四处找牌子来确认教堂的名字,就听到钟声响起, 教堂大门打开,走出一对新郎新娘,喜气洋洋的娶亲大部队都跟在后面。我们凑过去沾沾喜气,虫儿赶紧抓了两个大妈, 一手指着纸上St.Michael教堂的名字,一手指向教堂塔楼,

“Is this St. Michael Church?”

大妈甲和大妈乙用德文商量了几句, 说come come。虫儿和小乖一头雾水,就被带到了一牧师跟前, 虫儿还是那个老问题:

“Is this St. Michael Church?”

高大帅气的牧师身着一身白袍,在阳光下浑身散发着圣洁的光辉,面部表情十分的平易近人,湛蓝深邃的眼睛真诚地望着小虫儿这迷途的羔羊, 微笑着说,。。。 妹黑欧。。。 不是此处省略几百字,而是全都德语,虫儿这文盲明显没有听懂, 指着打下来的名字又问了一遍, 牧师耐心的指着身后的教堂, 点点头:妹黑欧,妹黑欧。。。

呃,好吧,虫儿和牧师谢过, 决定进去一探究竟。 没想到这外表平淡的教堂却有着一颗绚丽的心, 玫瑰红般的颜色,金壁辉煌的浮雕, 极尽奢华。仿佛是电影里的昨天,刚结束的婚礼留下了一地的花瓣, 想来上校和玛丽亚也是这样吧。我们坐在教堂的长凳上默默地感受着,心中丝丝幸福和兴奋,时间关系,小坐了片刻依依不舍地起身了。

朝圣者拜山成功。 飘飘然出了教堂, 再上路的时候,查点儿乐极生悲。虫儿指挥着弗弗从20厘米高的“倒鸭子”上直开下去, 差点撞坏租车大梁。嗯,对方“倒鸭子”没问题。

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2013在路上 - 瑞士奥地利捷克自驾游 25-4 戏水喷泉(jeux d’eau)

好的旅行家总是因地制宜的安排着旅行计划的。在这么一个烈日炎炎吃得肚滚溜圆想睡觉的下午,能去哪儿呢?你可知道,这个问题早在1612年的时候就有古人帮你安排好了吗?这就是城南郊海尔布伦宫的戏水宫Schloss Hellbrunn。

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1612年萨尔茨堡的主教(马尔库斯•西提库斯•冯•郝恩内穆)上任几个月后就开始在水源丰富的海尔布伦山山脚处建造一座避暑庄园。作为意大利文化与艺术的爱好者,他在很短的时间里就在萨尔斯堡城南设计建筑处这座巴罗克式的庭院。海尔布伦避暑宫里有许多喷泉和洞穴,还包括一座花园和一座世界上风格独一无二的喷泉。包括一个大花园,喷泉,以及剧院,直至今日它仍然是阿尔卑斯山以北最宏伟的建筑物之一。

门票是按照时间跟团游玩的,family ticket 25欧元。我们还在等的时候就偶尔听到前面一个团的嘻闹声。终于轮到我们了,领队是一个看起来很英俊的小帅锅,不过后来有一次帽子摘掉了露出秃秃的头顶就有些令人失望啊。这个戏水喷泉的名气看来很大,我们这一队来自世界各地的游客都有,还有一团专门从日本来的,由导游带着进来,每人带个小耳麦,开始介绍戏水宫历史背景的时候导游就在一旁同声翻译,够专业的。介绍完了领队邀请小朋友们上去做在石头桌子旁边,我们鼓动小乖上去。结果很走运,其他小朋友坐的石凳下面都有机关,偏偏她选了的主座没有。于是她笑嘻嘻看着其他小朋友被水湿着裤子。这会儿天气热,大家乐此不疲,笑嘻嘻的继续逛。

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园中里面意想不到的机关一个接一个,但都需要领队讲着讲着不经意操作一下才可以,还有一点就是前面的一团和我们这一团时间相隔也不久,所以好多时候地上的水迹也会出卖机关。但是出来玩,大家都很疯,有一对年青漂亮的,男生还故意抱着女生淋淋水,总之一路逛下来,非常的开心。想着当年那些能工巧匠们,利用天然水的压力,设计出这么多戏水机关,还是很牛的。可惜戏水宫不大,半个钟的功夫也就转玩了。

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除了戏水宫,其余的海尔布伦宫占地广阔,散布这一些石雕作品。只是这会儿玩完戏水喷泉,再看看别的多少有些意兴阑珊,想着我们今晚还要赶到小镇Hallstatt,就先撤了。

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June 14, 2014in:

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2013在路上 - 瑞士奥地利捷克自驾游 25-3 粮食胡同

之前做功课,发现驴友们很有才,比如萨尔茨堡的玩法,人家是如此总结的:

“高堡登高望城听那遥远的故事,粮食胡同里挤挤挨挨抬头看招牌低头逛商店,再有就是永远围着人的莫扎特故居,就算不进去,也要到此一游拍照留念。”

果然,找到 老城区的粮食胡同(Getriedegasse)的时候,这才发现这是绝对是萨尔茨堡的游客聚集地。窄窄的一条步行街,熙熙攘攘,却是people watching的好地方。粮食胡同的铁艺招牌的确很有特点,只是我们这会儿,心思都在我们想去的那家餐馆那儿呢。今天选的这家Wilder Mann,虽然身处粮食胡同闹市,却是属于当地人的餐馆,性价比高,以肉菜为主。嗨,正对我们德州农民的口味,我们这一路,别的不缺,就缺肉。

餐馆按照门牌号找到了,在一个小门栋的里面,门脸不大。下午这会儿,午餐高峰已经过了,所以小屋里的食客不多,我们去了就有位置。要了著名的推荐: 最奥地利的薯条和炸鸡排,最农民气质的猪肉炖锅 gulasch mit knodel,还有一份three meat grill。菜端上了,果然够分量。猪肉炖锅味道炸鸡排不错,就是口味偏咸,想着下午要开车,没敢要啤酒。其实是傻儿。欧洲之行到这会儿,之前饱受瑞士餐馆昂贵而不出彩,此时刚刚开始逛奥地利的餐馆,还没有放开。后来发现啤酒价格和饮料什么的价格都差不多,实际考虑容器的大小,真的比餐馆里一杯水龙头的水还便宜,从此就放开了。虽说欧洲餐馆的一些价格的不靠谱,也许人家就是通过这么样的方式,劝君多饮一杯吧。

虫儿点的three meat grill一般,不高兴的是在她吃着吃着吃出一根头发。得,不是都说了是当地人餐馆了吧。不过还是和服务生提了,找来管事的,态度不能说太好,但还是把事情处理了一下,换了个小的牛肉锅。后来叮当她们也来了这家餐馆,据说第一次来还吃了一个闭门羹,说是太晚了停止接待了。第二天她们又来了的时候,态度也马马虎虎。总的来说呢,这家餐馆东西不错,价格合理,口味偏咸,态度吧,也就是大多数欧洲餐馆的样子,看服务生心情了。还有一个小tips,如果天气热的话,还是坐在门廊外相对好一些。否则像我一样,猪肉炖锅一路吃下来,汗滴禾下土。不知道的还以为我这顿大餐吃下来,是如何感慨万千呢。

出门再逛的时候,果然看到了著名的莫扎特故居。门口还有一个扮成莫扎特时代的人,等着游客拍照。派乖儿上去,先投币一枚。人家果然专业,指挥我在人群之中找到最佳拍摄位置,然后驱散围观群众,以标准姿势和乖儿合影两张,全程专业微笑,令我很满意。我觉得餐馆的服务,有必要和他看齐。

粮食胡同故事的结尾是一人弄了一个冰激凌。吃着冰激凌,哼着小曲,偶尔遇到个把美女,跟着走一段,我怎么觉得生活揍是如此的简单又美好。虫儿在一旁哼着说,你吃饱了,世界就和平了。

Tips:
Wilder Mann
Getreidegasse 20, Salzburg 5020, Austria
+43 662 841787

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2013在路上 - 瑞士奥地利捷克自驾游 25-2 最华丽的婚姻登记处

在萨尔斯堡的第二站是米拉贝尔花园及宫殿,名气不小,说是世界上最华丽的婚姻登记处。我们附近停了车,走到花园入口没多久,就发现N多新郎新娘子一大家人在园子里面拍照,旁边的婚姻登记处也是人头涌动,都是亲友团来见证美好时光的。

不由自主想起一首歌的旋律:
叮噹 聽著禮堂的鐘聲 我們在上帝和親友面前見證
這對男女現在就要結為夫妻 不要忘了這一切是多麼的神聖
你願意生死苦樂永遠和她在一起 愛惜她 尊重她 安慰她 保護著她
倆人同心建立起美滿的家庭 你願意這樣做嗎? YES,I DO

奥地利人新婚仪式相对简单,就是在登记处旁边的厅里有一个简单的酒会。至于之后有没有晚宴,就不清楚了,有的话也应该和老美的类似吧。整个登记仪式简单又隆重,唯一热闹的一幕是大家拎着一块大布,上面画着永结同心的两个心形图案,让新娘新郎同时剪下了,比比谁剪得快。这一轮自然又是新娘赢了,周围的娘家人起哄叫好,我也混在人群中凑着热闹。按虫儿话说,可惜脸长的不像,否则绝对可以混到婚宴里面混吃混喝。我说看我着背着大大的相机,更像是婚礼摄影的吧。

气氛是轻松的,心情是欢愉的。我们跟着粘粘喜气,反倒日头下米拉贝尔花园的景色和石雕倒也不重要了。树荫下,听听当地音乐爱好者的歌剧表演,姑娘嗓音不错,唱得很投入。一曲唱罢,大伙儿踊跃捐钱。这类音乐表演者总是很受游客欢迎,轻松的心境在音乐声中憧憬着浪漫。还有两位在林荫道上伴成雕塑的,这大热天的也够辛苦,只不过我们不是我们的菜,还是避开了。

音乐之声似乎有一幕就是在这个园中里拍的。比如我们怕晒而躲着的花藤长廊下,似乎在电影里有镜头。不是狂热的电影迷,但是在奥地利,一路看到的山山水水,脑海里总是想起那些熟悉的旋律。经典就是经典,不经意会冒出来。只是小时候看的时候,除了羡慕,绝不会想到以后有机会亲自来看看吧。而这会儿看到了,电影中的一幕幕美景,的确是真正奥地利的样子。

从园子的一头一直逛到园子的另一头,肚子提抗议了。本以为粮食胡同也在河南岸这面,后来拿出做好的功课仔细看看,发现错了,原来粮食胡同是在古堡那一面。得,重新走回去取车吧。

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