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Cancun及Yucatán Peninsula自驾游: Chichen Itza

来到Cancun的第三天,和朋友约好一起去看看玛雅古迹 Chichen Itza. Yucatán半岛在历史上曾是玛雅人长期生活的地方,留下不少遗址,Chichen Itza是其中相对保存完好而离Cancun比较近的一处,1988年的时候被联合国历史教科文组织评为世界历史文化遗产之一。

从Cancun开车,很方便在307 Hwy南面找到去Merida/Chichen Itza的高速公路,看着路况极好,双向四道中间隔离,就猜出一定是toll way. 去Merida/Chichen Itza的路有两条,除了toll way (cuota), 还有一条要经过当地村庄的freeway. Toll way 上面车很好,一路上除了我们,只看见三五辆小车,看来旅游车都是走的freeway?我们的小车也可以飙到120公里的速度,路两旁的风景有些闷,都是矮矮的灌木丛。其实这才是墨西哥这面土生土长的植被,少了许多热带植物的风情。车程一半的时候遇到收费站,美刀$18, 另外出发的时候要加满油,这一路上的加油站是快到Chichen Itza才见到的。大约两个半小时的时候,我们就到了。


我们的队伍,有“导游”在讲解 :-)

出来的晚,到Chichen Itza的时候已经的游人满园了。这次来Cancun前时间匆忙,我并没有仔细补习这园中古迹的来源。当然,你可以混在旅行团中蹭听导游的解说,不过我对这类跟团式的玩法兴趣不大,更何况当时实在是太热了。正午时分,如果泡在海水里也是清爽适人,不过走在这两千年玛雅人的领地里,没多久只能躲在树荫上搽汗了。看着这园中一群群的游客和冷不丁冒出来的小贩,吊古评今的感觉是没有了,剩下的多是到此一游的俗人心态。不过自己逛的好处就是想去哪儿就去哪儿,有些旅游团不去的地方,比如Group of 1000 Columns的后园,少了游人,多了些树荫,而且遍地的残岩断壁,多少让人有些让人感叹历史的痕迹和文明的变迁。

而这一会,午夜,孤独一人,当我重新坐在现代文明的计算机前,看着自己拍的照片,读着书中记载的故事,对照着当时的情形,心情变得有些微妙,让我们的思绪一起随着照片在古今不同的时空中穿梭吧。


El Castillo/Temple of Kukulcan

这是园中最醒目的金字塔,整个Chichen Itza都是以El Castillo为中心的,考古学家告诉我们,它始建于公元850 年,当时玛雅人是为了玛雅年历中一个52 year cycle(52年一轮回)的结束和新轮回的来临而纪念他们信奉的神:God Quetzalcoatl.
按现在的说法,应该相当于我们的千禧年世纪交替吧。

这座金字塔融入了当时玛雅人十分先进的天文和历法知识,比如它每一面的台阶是91阶,四面加起来然后再算上塔顶正好是他们认为的一年365天。又如它每一面有9层(terrace), 被中心台阶分成两面,数字上的18可能代表了玛雅历法中一年18个月。又如它每一面细数下来,共有52 panels, 可能代表玛雅历法中52年一个轮回。

El Castillo差不多有24米高,坡度接近45度。之前有开放给游人攀登,只可惜这回儿已经不开放了。而且整个金字塔的空心内部还有一个小的金字塔。

小的时候看自然科学之谜,金字塔自然是其中之一,书中的神秘描述让小时候的我心里充满了世界不可知论。这会儿看到了真正的金字塔,无论数字上的神秘也好,天文上的巧合也好,也终究认识到,这东东人类自己是可以修建的,而且从工程角度而言,应该不比我们山脊上面修长城困难吧。

这位虔诚的婆婆是在缅怀,还是在寻觅?

塔北面台阶下的两条巨蟒,是玛雅人的守护神。每当春分秋分季节,太阳的影子会让它们复活。。。
照片的远景就是Temple of Warriors


Temple of Warriors的正面,据说是纪念雨神 rain god Charc and plumed serpent Kukulcan.

仔细看,你会发现它上面一个卧坐的人像Charmool, 还有柱子上的蛇,守卫着入口。

看近一点,Temple of Warriors前密布着刻满精美图文的方柱和圆柱,这些是The Group Of a Thousand Columns. 这些柱子围成一块巨大的空地,如今已是绿树成荫,断墙残垣,走在其中,远离了喧嚣的旅游团,也许会涌起一点思古幽情。

真的有人能破解这逝去的文明吗?还只是现代人的臆想呢?

残缺

玛雅人的市场,不得而知的华丽。

记录着玛雅文明骄傲的天文观测台

外墙装饰极美的Nunnery, 讽刺的是西班牙人起的名字,历史揣测可能是玛雅人的一处宫殿(Palace)。

三个小时太阳下的走透透,最后留下脑海中的是文明的远逝,轮回,和崛起。

在遍地吆喝声中,替小宝买了一个小小的石制金字塔,外加一根墨西哥当地的彩虹冰棍儿,鼓励她最长的暴走记录。其实要我说,做冷饮生意要比纪念品生意好赚,可惜当地人领会到的不多。

Posted:
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December 31, 2006in:
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4 Responses to “Cancun及Yucatán Peninsula自驾游: Chichen Itza”

  1. 粉丝 Says:

    感觉佛佛这次有点审美疲劳啊,不过是兄弟都是十分仰慕买买提的南帝, 接着写…

  2. fufu Says:

    呵呵,我出去玩还好啊,不是那么挑剔的。只要全家一起走走,感觉都不错的。而且Cancun一带也还是很好玩的。多谢捧场了,假期结束了,游记也只是一半,唉,争取坚持下去。

  3. 粉丝 Says:

    呵呵,佛佛的游记可是俺们粉丝的指鹿明灯啊.这写了一半,灯就灭了,俺们粉丝可找不着北了,接着写…

  4. fufu Says:

    呵呵,我写游记LD说太唐了,这一阵子又懒了,不好意思,争取吧~

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