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2011在路上:南美智利-从圣地亚哥到巴拉斯港

旅行第五日。

天色渐渐亮起来了,我看看时间,不过五点钟的样子,长途车静静地开在智利南北向的五号泛美高速公路上。说是高速公路,大部分时候都只是一来一往双向两条车道,天色尚早,私家车不多,我们的车子大部分时间以99km的时速不急不慢地行驶在广漠的原野上。这会儿,大部分乘客还在酣睡。Turbus的Salon Cama夜车服务还是很不错的,进口的德国Benz车,干净、安静,而且座位可以放得很平,座位间隔很大,这一路上睡的不错。又过了一阵,早餐也送来了,虽然很简单。

按计划到Puerto Varas应该是7:45am,眼看着时间快到了,我频频看着公路上的路标,可惜丝毫没有概念还有多远。翻着手机上的西语词典,我凑出了一句问句,说给车上服务员听,回答的我家小乖和虫儿居然听懂了,“sísí,还有十分钟。。。放宽心”。一路说西文,发现sísí点头用的最多,很难听明白的时候,也只好苦笑着点头了。

这十分钟可是越开越久,已经迟了,正想再问的时候,汽车一扭头下了高速。高速出口有人收费,想必要到了,我稍稍放宽了心。车刚停稳,我们三个就跳下了车。按照事先计划好的,乖儿和虫儿去堵出租车,我这儿等着取行李。等我把行李刚拿到手,乖儿就兴高采烈地冲过来报告,门口就有一辆出租,被我们捷足先登抢到了。看看时间,八点刚刚出头,还好还好,智利的长途车还算靠谱。

递过出租车司机看lake crossing旅行社地址,在市中心的赌场对面,其实也就是几个街区的距离,司机笑眯眯地点头称是,刚刚说了几句welcome to Puerto Varas 就到了,收了$3.000。智利这一路,遇到的出租车司机都非常的老实,唯独对这回儿的收费有些存疑,也许这就是当地的起步价,也许。。。

不管如何,我们还是赶上了,刚刚好。这不,Lake crossing 旅行社这面儿,导游正拿着名单,点着行李,游客已经开始上车了。

和夜车不同,这是一车兴高采烈的游客,旅行到这会儿,终于有些度假的味道了,沿着Llanquihue Lake湖边开出城,Osorno火山就这样由远到近,不经意的露出来。。。

Cruce Andino(lake crossing tour) 是从智利这面采用车船交替的方式,穿越安第斯山脉,直达阿根廷的旅游城市San Carlos de Bariloche。智利这儿可以选择从Puerto Montt 或Puerto Varas出发,当然你也可以选择从Bariloche反方向玩过来。这一路湖光山色秀丽,风景迷人,可以说是智利阿根廷湖区的精华游。除了这个tour, 因为两国边界湖泊众多,山路崎岖,自驾好像是没办法走的。后来从阿根廷回智利的长途车,则是走的北面边界的另一条路。这段游程夏天是一天完成,要是冬天的话,因为日照时间短短,要分成两天才可以。

当然,也因为独此一家,tour的价钱并不便宜,前面做功课的时候有提,我一开始提前在网上订票,阿姐回信说是$280一个人,我就奇了,网上明明是$230的,哪有提前订票还要多收钱的道理。阿姐很快就回信了,我们这个tour的收费2012新年过后就涨价了,一个涨五十美刀。Gee~~~幸好我当时旅馆什么的还没订全,临时行程大动,我偏偏要把这tour给挪到2011年完成。这才有了多少有些冒险的长途夜车计划。至于$280的tour性价比如何,我还是留个大伙儿自个判断吧,这儿摘录一段做功课时Cissy写的,我认为很有诱惑力,之前我就是这么被打动的。

“14小时的一日游,230美元,价格相当不菲。但是和坐过的人聊,都说好。也不都是有钱人,有个阿根廷人40美元的旅馆都嫌贵,但是说这个cruce非常值那230刀。另外坐了这个,智利这边就省掉了Peulla/Petrohue一日游60美元,阿根廷那边省掉Puerto Blest游船45美元和Circuito Chico半日游15美元,因为这里面都包括了。时间上和坐巴士也差不了多少,因为坐巴士下午3点多到,剩下的时间也就随便逛逛吃顿饭。虽然付230,但其它地方可以省掉60+45+15+30车费=150美元其他费用,再加2天时间和2天旅馆。最重要的是,那一段是两国湖区湖光山色的精华。所以算下来性价比极好,这次错过非常扼腕。但是如果天气不好就不要坐了,风景会大打折扣的。另外,夏季是一日游,冬季因为日照时间短,要分两天走完全程,当中在 Peulla住。虽然票价不变,但是Peulla只有一家很贵的旅馆,加上去性价比就降低了。当然,如果钱不是问题,在那种风景如画的地方过夜也很不错。”

不过Cissy那会儿没机会去。玩过之后,我想更正的时候,智利这面一日游是省掉了,但是阿根廷那面的Circuito Chico半日游不能算数,因为只是匆匆路过,真正的Circuito Chico还是值得自己慢慢开车转转的。

还想补充地是,这一路,行李和你都是分开走的,而且要过关,所以你该带的东西一定要在随身背包里,保暖的冲锋衣、护照、贵重物品,相机,防晒油,零食小吃等,我想你也明白了吧,早上八点多出发,晚上九点多才到,中午的时间看你运气,吃饭也不一定保证。我们这一路,零食不够,最后那一段,那叫一个饥肠辘辘,乖儿差一点连口香糖都吃到肚子里了。

Tips:
1. Llanquihue Lake湖,中文有译成延基韦湖的,有称为兰奇胡亚湖的,总之听起来怪怪的。Wiki说了,智利第二大湖,而不是有些中文旅游网站称的智利第一大湖。真正智利第一大湖是智利阿根廷两国边境的Lake General Carrera/Buenos Aires。

2. Cruce Andino (Lake Crossing) 官方网站:
www.cruceandino.com/en/

Puerto Varas office: Del Salvador St 72, Puerto Varas , in front of the casino. Depart at 8:30am
Puerto Montt office: Antonio Varas 216 Edificio Torre del Puerto Oficina 907 Piso 9 , Puerto Montt

可以并推荐提前在线预定,具体出发时间请在预定时咨询。

后记,偶然网上看到,这个tour 2006年是150美刀,2011年230美刀,2012年280美刀,活生生地南美物价指数啊。

Posted:
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Warning: date() [function.date]: It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'America/New_York' for 'EDT/-4.0/DST' instead in /home/travels/public_html/blog/wp-includes/functions.php on line 26

Warning: date() [function.date]: It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'America/New_York' for 'EDT/-4.0/DST' instead in /home/travels/public_html/blog/wp-includes/functions.php on line 28
February 13, 2012in:
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