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2011在路上:南美智利-没有空调的长途车

旅行第十二日

今天就要离开Chiloe岛了。其实,如果细细玩,岛上还有好多地方可以走走看看。整个Chiloe岛因为游人来得不多,又不像南部好多小城源于欧洲移民的历史,所以很大程度上保持了智利本土渔民的特色。只是,长长的智利,自己想去的地方太多,来也匆匆,去也匆匆。其实,平常的生活不也是一样,能修行到真正无欲无求的日子,恐怕也是老了动不了的时候吧。人,总是贪心的。

原路返回,重新坐渡轮摆渡过去,没多久回到Puerto Varas。照例把虫儿小乖扔在长途车站,自己加油还车,然后步行赶回去,到了长途车站,离我们出发时间不到半个钟了。

去Pucon/Valliaria 是白天的车,长途车公司买的JAC,智利南部的线路他家主营的不少。这不,从Purto Montt一直晃到Pucon, 五六个小时的车程,沿途陆陆续续停了N多的地方,车上老人小孩拖家带口走亲串友,和之前做的夜车相比,感觉更当地化了。

只是车上没有空调。

这会儿越往北,温度越高,车里面儿晒得象蒸笼,大家都是汗淋淋的。小乖忍不住把手里的地图折成蒲扇摇个不停。车开起来还好一些,一停下车里面都有些喘不上气来,哎。。。路过一村,有当地乡民上来卖馅饼,跟了一站没人买,下去了。另到一站,一聪明小伙端着一泡沫纸壳箱上来卖冰棍,$1000一只,生意大卖,最后下去的时候除了送个服务员和司机各一根,其它卖的一干二净。生意人聪不聪明,一清二楚。

晃啊晃,好不容易晃到Valliaria,我们下了车,又是傍晚了。Valliaria和Pucon 两个小镇,分别在Largo villarica湖的两边。Pucon是典型的旅游小镇,而Valliaria则是当地人居住的地方。你可以猜出来,这儿住的要比Pucon自然便宜些,我们今晚的落脚点是当地一个民宿(cabana),这一家是偶然看一个老美游记里面提到的,英文网站上查不到的。

之初网上订的时候屋主老太太邮件就回得比较慢,一开始给的价钱很便宜,我立刻要求订下来,结果久久没动静。催了又催,回了封邮件说是之前价钱给错了,这会儿算旺季,要求一晚$80美刀。智利这儿直接按美刀算费用的不多,老太太大概有些金融头脑,这不,平白无故价格就随着这几天美刀强劲水涨船高了。不过,老太太免了很头疼的押金,要求我出发前确认一下。于是分别在十二月初和临出发前都跟她邮件说了,行程不变,不见不散,只是没收到老太太的回信,自以为就这样了。

这会儿找了辆出租车,照例给了地址,要求司机和屋主联系。没几分钟找到了,司机大哥只要了$1200,非常的诚恳。虫儿说,感觉比Puerto Varas 最初遇到的司机还要诚实些。

屋主原来是个胖大妈,没有我想象的老。最有意思的是,她们一家五个女生,有她妹妹还有她自己的女儿外甥女什么的,看见出租车来了,全都从屋里跑出来,看见我们下来,依次和虫儿小乖来了个南美贴面礼,右脸碰一下,左脸碰一下,把我看得这个恍惚,太隆重了吧。唉,结果慢了一步,我刚想把脸儿凑过去,人家到我这儿停了,说了句英语:“you must be blahblahblah….”

“不是,我是fufu。。。”

“啊?你有收到我的邮件吗?你之前不和我联系,我以为你不来了,把你的预订取消了,给别人了。”

“什么时候的邮件?”

“昨天。”

昨天,坑爹啊,昨天回来累的很,压根就没有查邮件啊。阿姐,人在江湖飘,哪里能天天有wifi查邮件呢?”

还好,她转租的人倒是变了主意没来,我们最终还是拿到了我们之前订的房间。胖大妈两家人住在院里前头大屋子里,后面的院子一溜盖了五六间小房出租。得,这日子在智利,绝对是financial freedom了。我们的小屋是其中最小的一间,不清楚胖大妈别人的都收多少钱,和邻居聊聊,他们一大家是从首都圣地亚哥过来度假的。你别说,我们这一路,别说亚裔了,连欧美说英语的看到都很少,相对而言,智利旅游这一块,似乎没有刻意象邻国秘鲁阿根廷什么的宣传的那么厉害,和当地人一样,不卑不亢。

再回头查邮件,果然胖大妈在昨日不到两个小时的时间里发了多封邮件,先是询问,然后谴责,最后不由分说就给取消了。唉,我都不清楚她之前的热情欢迎是真心对我们的还是误把我们当初转租的游客了,不过怎么说,大妈属于典型的生意人了,要比Chiloe的屋主小伙精明多了。

不过这会儿话也说开了,结果还好,也就不多说了。大妈收钱也指定要美金,细问,原来她的老大姑娘已经嫁到德州了,前不见她还去过,难怪英语真的不错。问她对德州印象如何,说是当地Tex-Mex太好吃了。晕,老莫餐的朴实在智利这儿已经算是美味烹饪了,也不奇怪。

天色还亮着,我们打算出去转转。随意走了一阵,到镇子中心的小超市买了些水果鸡蛋什么的,回来煮面吃。小镇虽说以当地人为主,镇中心一带的生意多少以游客为主,冰激凌店什么的看过去也不便宜。不过我们跟着当地人找到一家卖便宜的冰沙,喝着饮料,拎着菜,溜溜哒哒,仿佛我们已经在这儿生活了好一阵子似的。更酷的是,当地人虽然少见亚裔,但也绝对没有好奇地乱看。这一点看来,智利人真的很酷。也许,看我们晒成这个样子,没办法想成是游客吧。

晚风间,在外面的摇椅上吃着晚餐,闲着看看网。旅行的日子到这会儿,终于慢下来了。

(照片后上)

Posted:
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Warning: date() [function.date]: It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'America/New_York' for 'EDT/-4.0/DST' instead in /home/travels/public_html/blog/wp-includes/functions.php on line 28
March 16, 2012in:
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