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2013在路上 - 瑞士奥地利捷克自驾游13-1 伯尔尼的熊孩子 (Bern)

瑞士的大城市,苏黎世日内瓦听得多了,伯尔尼就比较少。如果碰巧知道它还是瑞士首都的,那绝对是关心时事展望世界的牛人了。从洛桑、蒙特勒回两湖之间的因特拉肯(Interlaken) , 路上总要经过伯尔尼。话说这会儿大晌午,刚从洛桑圣母大教堂的塔楼爬下来,肚子咕噜咕噜的,想着的就是提前计划好的伯尔尼餐馆了。

餐馆的名字是Altes Tramdepot,瑞士本帮菜,在tripadvisor看人推荐的,绝好的地脚,就在伯尔尼老城河边的访客中心房子里。这会儿赶过来,午餐的时间已经过了,还好还有些热食可以点,于是要了当地的香肠土豆饼,炸鱼薯条和另外一道土豆做的菜。原本想点韃靼牛肉(tartar)的,后来服务生小妹说tartar都是全生的牛肉,露了回怯,推掉了。Altes Tramdepot算是瑞士这一路进的比较正式的一家餐馆了,中规中矩,可以推荐。说实在的,瑞士风味多以土豆奶酪为主,饮食风格单调少创意,味道平常,加上价格高贵,吃过这一顿大家就留着肚子去奥地利捷克了。对了,点了杯本店酿制的啤酒,味道还不错,晌午头冰冰凉来上一杯,怎么喝都舒坦吧。

有趣的这儿的小麻雀,黑溜溜的不起眼,却成群的在餐馆外面溜溜哒哒,盯着食客吃饭的碟子。你这会儿吃的满意一推盘伸个懒腰,小麻雀就急忙上桌子替你收拾残局了。我有心拿个薯条去逗它,结果引来一群,百鸟朝凤般地争抢,抢的急了,手指头上也可以叼上两叼。我和小乖正玩的开心,忽然背后传来一声严肃的瑞士英语,dont feed the bird。回头一看,服务生小妹正严肃地盯着我们呢。这一路,欧洲的服务生看着开心的不多,态度大多生硬,不说别的,和老美这儿的服务生就不可同日而语。我总是在想,是不是明着摆在桌面上小费制度还是起些作用的。坐在餐馆外面,俯瞰美丽的环城阿尔河和尼德格大桥,我看着眼前年轻的瑞士妹子,差点儿想劝一句:“做人呢,最紧要就是开心。如果饿的话儿,不如煮碗面啦。 ”

天下熙熙,皆为利来。攘攘的游客,又为何而来呢?是和我一样来这儿打熊的吗?

伯尔尼的德语是熊的意思。说起来还有个典故。早先建城的时候,当时的统治者Berthodv公爵突发奇想,决定出城打猎逮到啥城名就叫啥,结果走运逮了只熊,从此以后伯尔尼的市徽州徽都以熊为图案,伯尔尼成了有名的“熊孩子之城”。这会儿为了应景,在河畔修了座熊苑,可惜圈养的早以不是本地的熊,而是从加拿大进口的棕熊。欧洲的熊应该像是我们的华南虎一样绝迹了。加拿大这三只熊,也算是一不留神混入了欧洲上流社会,享受皇家待遇了。可惜这会儿不给面子,跟在屁股后面转来转去的,始终也没让我拍上个正脸,真是个熊孩子。

除了熊,广场前还碰到一队国人旅行团。前文提过,瑞士旅游局醒目,眼见着国人消费能力提高,有针对性地在国内捧红了几位驴友,出了两本瑞士赞助游的书,大火,从此国人的瑞士出游率是大幅度提高。一团国人当中,唯有一位独行的漂亮美眉让人眼睛一亮,更难得的还是位大大方方的美眉。机缘巧合,帮着拍了几张照片之后,随便聊了几句。原来她们这一团是不久前从北京出发的。

“你们玩多少天啊?”
“十二天”

“哇,十二天啊,算是深度游了。”我想着她们十二天都在瑞士转了。“你们从哪儿过来的?”
“我们昨天在因特拉肯。”

“因特拉肯?我们正要去诶。天气怎么样,有去少女峰吗?”
“哦,我们就在那儿住了一晚,然后就奔这儿了。”

“只住了一晚?那你们十二天都玩哪些地方?”
“哦,法国瑞士和意大利。我少女峰想去来着,可惜跟团没办法。。。”

十二天游三个国家,想来已经比我老丈人他们哪会儿十二天游十二国进步不少了。旅游这件事,每个人有每个人的玩法,钱花了高兴就好。我这一路走来,也未免有些脚步匆匆,囫囵吞枣,不过一家人满世界跑得多了,这个节奏也适合了。想来想去,跑得这么匆忙,还是荷包紧的缘故。否则有空儿多住住,看着瑞士人民悠哉悠哉地抬高物价来赚全世界游客的钱,那是多么高兴的一件事。我要是服务生美眉,就套件文化衫,上写优质服务欢迎小费几个字,甜甜一笑,宾主尽欢。

天飘起了小雨,老城多了几分历史的沧桑。和北京美眉告别互祝玩得开心之后,小乖和虫儿从访客中心拎了张地图,开始了我们的饭后遛弯行程。

人在路上,有的时候记住的是风景,有的时候记住的是有趣的人。更难得是有机会停下来小聊几句,也是一个旅途故事。只是拖家带口的,过了住青年旅社的年纪。这一路碰到的有趣的人,在奥地利的迷人小镇Hallstatt清晨拍片时邂逅了一对广州工作的八零后小夫妻,在捷克美丽小镇CK碰到一对热情的泰国兄妹,都寒暄了好久。大多时候看到的游客,欧洲的也好,国人也好,严肃警惕刻板面孔的居多。想来自己这一路咧嘴笑的日子比平时工作日子多多了,按虫儿的话说,每天酒足饭饱车上一倒,能不高兴吗。

再想想,旅途就是人生的快进。亲,做人呢,最紧要就是开心。。。

Tips:
1. Restaurant - Altes Tramdepot
Grosser Muristalden 6, Bern 3006, Switzerland
也可以选择逛完伯尔尼老城然后晃到熊苑这儿歇腿吃饭

2. Bern 官方网站,非常棒的one night in Bern介绍。
www.myswitzerland.com/en-us/bern.html

Posted:
Warning: mktime() [function.mktime]: It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'America/New_York' for 'EST/-5.0/no DST' instead in /home/travels/public_html/blog/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

Warning: date() [function.date]: It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'America/New_York' for 'EST/-5.0/no DST' instead in /home/travels/public_html/blog/wp-includes/functions.php on line 26

Warning: date() [function.date]: It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'America/New_York' for 'EST/-5.0/no DST' instead in /home/travels/public_html/blog/wp-includes/functions.php on line 28
August 20, 2013in:
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