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Warning: date() [function.date]: It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'America/New_York' for 'EST/-5.0/no DST' instead in /home/travels/public_html/blog/wp-includes/functions.php on line 28

2013在路上 - 瑞士奥地利捷克自驾游3 哭泣的狮子

琉森的城市不大,游客多集中在市中心,具体说来,就是著名卡贝尔廊桥(Kapellbrücke)和 老城墙旁的谷糠桥/斯普洛耶桥(Spreuerbrücke / Spreuer Bridge)一带。这是我后来琢磨出来的。之前做功课,林林总总看了很多,然而真正每到一地,我却讨厌看图索引的旅游方式,而虫儿又是从来认不准路,每每让她看路她都压力老大。所以琉森也是一样,在人潮汹涌的城中心找了一场收费停车场,趴好车,我们就一身轻松地混入人堆里了。

说道停车,市中心的停车场收费也算合理,而且15分钟一计时,我们转了一个晚上,两个钟左右好像也就CHF5的样子。对了,停车场的位置还是要仔细看看,因为大多出口在偏僻的内巷,如果不留神,回来的时候找起来就麻烦了。吃了几次亏, 后来学乖了,每次都拿手机先把巷里巷外乱拍一通。当然了,此等麻烦只限于我们两个路痴而已。

这会儿是傍晚,好多生意都关了,小巷子走出来,宝齐莱钟表珠宝连锁店(Bucherer)钟表大楼前难得的清净了,白天的时候这儿绝对是老中旅行团的天下。这会儿的游客都聚在靠湖的那一边,罗伊斯河大桥上也是人来人往。皮拉图斯大街的尽头可以看到豪夫教堂的影子,看着很远的样子。还是就近去廊桥那儿转转。

廊桥前面是步行街,依着湖有许多露天小餐馆,坐得满满的。许多天鹅在湖里转来转去,看见游人凑近就一窝蜂挤过去。廊桥看起来只是一座普普通通的木桥,外面挂满花花草草,内壁顶梁装饰着一些绘画。据说这座木桥可以追溯到十四世纪初,可以二十年前一场火劫,木桥毁于一旦,这会儿看到的是之后复制的,难怪感觉少一些历史的气场。也许欧洲人很早就发现木质建筑虽然容易建造,但是很难保存下来,所以当今看到的许多欧洲历史文明,多以石材雕刻建筑为主,更不要说常常见到的教堂和城堡了。沿着廊桥来来去去,拍了些照片,重新翻翻地图,我想趁着夜色来临前去找找我最想看的那头狮子。

去狮子纪念碑的路上穿过很多小弄堂,不经意的也到很多琉森有名的风景。其实如果有世界,我更愿意在清晨或者傍晚穿行在这儿的小巷子里。狭窄的弄堂,满眼的石板地,雕梁画栋的建筑装饰,成群结队的游客是不会来这儿的,于是多了几分小城的清幽。

沿途还碰到了老瑞士屋,很有名的一家高档餐厅,以传统瑞士美食为主,价格不菲。房子外面的建筑风格复古,这种半木结构的房屋在后来的小镇施泰因(Stein am Rhein)还看到许多。据说餐厅内部装饰极其奢华,我之前不知道,不过这会儿看看吴小璇的《瑞士十日》游记,也算是领略过了。

我们这会儿的心思都在那头哭泣的狮子那儿呢。

据介绍,狮子纪念碑由丹麦雕刻家特尔巴尔森设计,纪念在法国大革命中保护法国国王路易十六及其家族而献身的瑞士雇佣兵。马克吐温将称其为“世界上最哀伤最感人的石雕”。倒不是对这段历史有多么留意,只是法国历史上在欧洲的辉煌,之后这一路都能隐约感受到。路易十四鼎盛时期的文化影响力,媲美于中原的大唐时代吧。法国祖上的这些荣耀在我的法国同事身上尤其体现的出,记得旅行之前和一个老法聊天,说起我这第一次踏足欧洲,目的地是瑞士,不过会在日内瓦湖旁边逛逛法国小镇。老法骄傲地说,瑞士那片儿过去都是帮我们打仗的,想来他也许知道这只狮子。

狮子是雕刻在整面石壁凿开的石穴里中。走近细看,狮子面部的表情和细节栩栩如生,背部中箭的箭杆,倒地的盾牌和长矛,忧伤失色的眼神,痛苦呻吟的喘息。我不太清楚雕刻家想表达的具体情感,撇开历史不谈,在夜色下,单单地注视着这头狮子,我想马克吐温说的是对的。

第二天的傍晚,雨过初霁,我们又来看了一次。阴郁的天气,淌落的雨水,宛如狮子哭泣的眼泪。游人来了又走,时而喧嚣时而宁静,而你需要的是一点点时间,在黄昏里静静地独坐,任凭思绪放空。

琉森,我迷上了这只狮子。


卡贝尔廊桥


穆塞格城墙


老城广场

Posted:
Warning: mktime() [function.mktime]: It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'America/New_York' for 'EST/-5.0/no DST' instead in /home/travels/public_html/blog/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

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Warning: date() [function.date]: It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'America/New_York' for 'EST/-5.0/no DST' instead in /home/travels/public_html/blog/wp-includes/functions.php on line 28
September 3, 2013in:
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