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2013在路上 - 瑞士奥地利捷克自驾游3 瑞吉山 (Rigi)

我的瑞士好功课中有这么一段摘录:“琉森被认为是最瑞士的地方,它拥有许多瑞士代表性的特征,湍急见底的溪流,湛蓝如镜的湖面,挺拔幽深的杉林,雄伟峻峭的雪峰,这里上天造就的自然美与人工修饰的建筑美和谐地融为一体,世间恐怕再也找不到第二处如此美妙的地方让来到这里的人众口一词地说,琉森是一处上帝宠儿居住的地方”。

如果你在城中没找到感觉的话,你应该出城看看了。

我们瑞士之行的第二天,行程是围着瑞吉山开始的。早上旅馆吃过早餐,等了叮当她们一阵,路上又停了一个小镇子Coop买中午的野餐,真正赶到Vitznau的时候,已经十点多了。前面提到,瑞士公共交通非常准时,Rigi Kulm上山的火车在Vitznau这里,是每隔一小时一班。之前功课里我虽然查了火车时刻表,但是人在路上没太注意,这会儿紧赶慢赶,居然让我们最后一分钟赶上了10:15的火车,只是车里都坐满了,只好散坐在人群中,更顾不上所谓火车前进方向左侧风景独好的秘籍啦。其实这一点,也是自驾游和Swiss Pass自助游的主要区别了。瑞士火车自助游需要时刻留意不同车次的时刻表,误了一分钟的后果可能是少了一个小时的时间。如果对你而言时间不是问题,那瑞士火车自助游同样可以轻轻松松玩转好多地方的。

30分钟的上山行程,偶尔还可以看到从另外一个小镇阿尔特戈尔道(Arth-Goldau)上来的蓝色小火车错车的场景。Rigi Kulm的这趟登山铁路,开通于1871年,是欧洲最早开通的登山齿轨铁路(Rack Railway)。齿轨铁路和普通铁路相比,路轨中间多了一条特别的用于齿轮相扣的齿轨,这样就可以爬很陡峭的上坡了。再后来去了瑞士不同的山峰,有靠登山火车的,有靠各式缆车的。最后遇到少女峰的欧洲之巅列车时,越来越体味到瑞士人对登山的执着了。

瑞吉山的海拔并不高,只有1453米,只是琉森这儿丘陵纵横,湖儿星罗密布,瑞吉山上一眼望去,此处风景独好。老天爷也照顾,来的时候天还阴阴的,到这会儿,慢慢晴了,琉森湖的颜色也越来越漂亮。琉森湖的别名“四森林州湖”,望文生义,自然是多个湖连成一片,湖间的村落错落其中,森林掩映;难怪被称作最瑞士的地方。

除了自然风光,山上还有一群悠闲的带着铃铛的牛。按我家乖儿的说法,这些牛铃是小牛一出生的时候就带上去,每个上面都有个名字,带一辈子的。为什么瑞士的牛带铃铛呢?这还是个颇有渊源的传统。原来瑞士的牛大多散养在山间,夏天的时候会跑到山里很远的地方,有了大片的牛铃声,至少牧场的主人有个追踪的目标。古老的传统相信铃铛带有一种魔力,可以祛除各种邪灵。当然了,另外一个直观的效果就是,哪个牧场主人富有,谁的牛群多,听听铃声就知道了。

生活在阿尔卑斯山间,瑞士的牛要比其它地方的同类幸福许多,我一直认为瑞士养牛主要以奶制品为主,而非单纯的食肉。餐馆里超市里的牛肉既贵而且口感欠佳,而奶酪优格却是绝对的赞。这样看来,瑞士的牛也可以算是天堂中的牛了。除了牛之外,后来还见到瑞士的羊,不知道是不是夏天怕热的缘故,远远地一群散步在山巅之上,也是一番风情。可惜的是,欧洲田园被人类开发的太久了,这一路山区走过来,甚少看到野生动物,连小动物都很少。就这一点而言,加拿大落基山脉一带更自然朴素一些。

在山顶溜达了好一阵,我们坐车到Rigi-Kaltbad站野餐。中午日头直落下来,热了许多。只看到一些商业化的小餐厅,没有找到理想中的野餐区。时间不是很多,我们在树荫下找了片草地,开始填肚子。各式面包,夹着不同火腿牛肉和三文鱼,新鲜的生菜,清凉的葡萄,配上各式饮料,面对无敌山色,也算是奢侈的午餐啦。

阿尔卑斯山的自然风情,自瑞吉山起,越来越让人着迷。

Posted:
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September 4, 2013in:
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