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2013在路上 - 瑞士奥地利捷克自驾游8 马特洪峰一瞥

今天行程安排是这样的,上午采尔马特小镇(Zermatt)上山,下午洛伊克巴德(Leukerbad)泡温泉,傍晚如果还有精神的话,西涌城堡看落日,绝对完美。

我原来设计行程的时候没有包括采尔马特小镇(Zermatt),主要是这一片山区位置偏远,不是很顺路。后来临行前重温行程,觉得既然都打算去洛伊克巴德(Leukerbad)泡温泉了,也不差拐到采尔马特那儿看看马特洪峰(Matterhorn)了。于是重新设计了一下路线,这样瑞士的名山古迹就算转全了,也不用留到下次了。

有了昨天迷路的经验,今天大雄在前面领路,一路开得很顺,只是来来回回,日内瓦南岸这面都是当地小路,开不快,每每都要耽误一个钟头左右的时间。如果大家订行程的话,还是在北岸找找住宿的地方为好。

去采尔马特的高速开了又一个多钟才转成山路,蜿蜒而上,好在这两天山路大家开习惯了。租车的时候,除非是天生开手动车的高手另说,否则还是多花些钱租个自动车为好。不为别的,绕来绕去的S形山路不说,山间会车的时候来个急停然后接一个坡起,旁边就是山谷,可不是闹着玩的。偶说这话还是有分量的,当年在墨西哥和智利旅行的时候哥可是全程开手动车的。

泰施(Täsch)小镇停车,买了去采尔马特及马特洪峰的往返火车票。采尔马特是禁止车辆进入的,山谷里的一角就可以看到著名的马特洪峰,这会儿它正躲在山尖尖的云雾中,多了些神秘。其实夏天不是看雪山的最好时机,温度高,很多向阳的雪山雪都融化了。没了雪的雪山,裸露着黑色的岩石,区别有如天鹅和丑小鸭一般。这一感觉,后来到了奥地利更明显。不过马特洪峰这一带因为山势高,雪山连绵,即使在炎炎夏日里也能感受到它们的气势。

马特洪峰的闻名是因为它的形状,是一個非常有个性的四面锥体,分别面向东南西北。每一个面都非常陡峭,因此只有少量的雪黏在表面。正因为如此,在历史上马特峰是阿尔卑斯山脉中最后一个被征服的主要山峰。名气大了,以至于世界上有很多突出的锥形尖峰都被别称作该地区的“马特峰”,我们去年去智利的时候就碰到过智利的马特洪峰。

其实马特洪峰如果拼高度的话是没有优势的,阿尔卑斯山脉在冰川之城采尔马特附近,单单是海拔4000米以上的高峰就多达38座,这也是我们站在戈尔内格拉特(Gornergrat)高处的观景台上的第一感觉吧,群山环抱,白雪皑皑,躲在云雾中的马特洪峰倒也没有在山下看到的那么突出了。群山之间,阿尔卑斯山区第二大冰河戈尔内冰河清晰可见,这也是这儿的一大特色了。

还有的一个特色就是面向雪山的一处坡地被游客堆满了奇形怪状的累石堆(Cairn),有的形状颇为构思巧妙,非常吸引眼球。小乖和她的小伙伴们也不甘心,四处收集怪石,有模有样也搭起个小小的,算是到此一游的很好纪念方式。

一路还遇到很有有个性的狗。可惜,最著名的那只圣伯纳狗却不见踪影,不知道是不是跟着主人打尖休息去了。

路上的好风景可遇不可求。即使看了再多别人的照片,你的旅行还是独一无二的。因为风景因为你的存在而赋予了你不同的感受,这远远不是读别人的游记故事就能体味到的。俗话怎么说的来着:读万卷书不如行千里路;行千里路不如阅人无数。想想挺有道理的。

在山上耽搁的有些久了,而马特洪峰却一直躲在云朵里不肯露出真正的摸样,自然也没有想着从Rotenboden站走下去找那个可以看到倒影的riffelsee湖了。在那个小站稍微停了一下,拍了些好玩的照片,就匆匆搭了下一班的火车,告别了采尔马特。

如果有时间,我想还是应该在采尔马特住一晚,看看晨光中的马特洪峰,搭一座更大的累石堆。或者像我们火车上遇到的几个山地车爱好者一样,千里迢迢把山地车运上山来,然而潇洒地一路冲下去。在她们的眼里,旅行不只只是风景,更多的是这段经历。于我而言,旅途中遇到这样有趣的人,聊上几句,路上的风景也因为她们的故事而变得独一无二。

Posted:
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September 7, 2013in:
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