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2013在路上 - 瑞士奥地利捷克自驾游9 山巅的温泉浴


山巅上的温泉小镇

按照计划,我们接着是去温泉小镇洛伊克巴德(Leukerbad)泡温泉。在采尔马特停得有些太长,这会儿时间有些不够了。因为温泉小镇的最大一家公共温泉布尔格巴德(Burgerbad)晚上八点就关门了。

泡温泉绝对是全家出游最爱的活动之一。之前做功课的时候就在想,这么大的阿尔卑斯山,有没有泡温泉的地方呢?一查还真的发现了这个温泉小镇。史说,这儿的温泉浴可以追溯到罗马时代,当时的贵族们就已经长途跋涉来这儿享受着阿尔卑斯山最大的高山温泉了。看来,无论如何,这是我们泡过的最有历史的温泉。

起初见到高山温泉的字眼以为然,因为之前去过的温泉多半在山中,否则你平地里四四方方修个热水池,旁人怎么看都像澡堂,你愣说是温泉也没有人信不是。满世界转悠,遇到过老美奥利匹亚国家公园臭臭的硫磺泉,加拿大落基山脉贾斯珀国家公园的梅耶特温泉,哥斯达黎加园林风格的温泉,智利返璞归真的天然温泉,这回儿,洛伊克巴德小镇的高山温泉到底是什么样的呢?

窄窄的盘山路转啊转,转啊转,沿着山脊足足转了半个多钟,才来到洛伊克巴德小镇。天啊,温泉真的是在山巅之上啊,打破了印象中水往低处流温泉山谷中的概念。这会儿一查,小镇海拔1411米,想着从日内瓦湖的海拔高度转上来,也够可以了。

公共温泉布尔格巴德Burgerbad就在小镇主街的入口处,我们只剩下不到三个钟的时间了。把虫儿和乖儿放下去买票,我去找停车的地方,结果转了两圈才找到。小镇的停车场标志不明显,躲在主街旁边平行的一条小路上,停了车,还要走一阵子才能走回来。

不过三七二十一,脱光光一洗为快。

很显然,布尔格巴德温泉绝非简简单单的浴池,而是经过精心设计的。温泉占地面积非常大,依着山势上下四层。室外的三个个大池子依着坡式坐落在不同的地方,各有特色,各式各样的喷头和泡泡。水的温度不算高,温温的,长时间躺在里面也不倦。有一个温泉池铺满长长的躺椅,会有各种的小水柱从躺椅上喷出来,好像水疗按摩一样,躺在上面舒服地都快睡着了。

如果你嫌外面的温泉温度不够,这儿还有一间专门的火山泥桑拿泉。

推开掩映的小门,里面窄窄的,扑面而来的热气立即把眼镜糊得严严实实。慢慢适应了,才发现昏暗的灯光下,水色昏黄,水温奇热,很难一下子坐下来。我不安地在水里转着圈,不由自主地哼起了鸳鸯茶,you and me and me and you…效果奇好,本来不多的人,很快走得就剩下我和虫儿了。哼,一看就知道不是来接头的。

如果你还嫌不够劲,桑拿泉外面就是奇冷的冰水池(高山矿泉)。你要是喜欢打摆子,冷一下热一下,还有专门的冷热水池让你在里面趟着走。温泉泡得多了,这种玩法倒是少见。泡到最后,虔诚的在冷水盆里作个揖,然后在旁边热水盆里作个揖,如此反复,我觉得自己就像虎皮凤爪一样,再蒸上一蒸就可以上桌了。

小乖更是满园子跑了个遍。这会儿兴奋地跑过来,拉我去室内的旋转水滑梯玩。一大一小两个滑梯,两三层楼高,一个是双人的,一个是单人的,虽然没有我们这儿的水上乐园修的复杂,但是也非常刺激。尤其是高处的单人滑梯,封闭的圆筒有着不同的颜色。一开始不以为然,后来越滑越快,最后变成漆黑一片,还没有等你反应过来呢,就一头扎到水里了。最难得的是,这会儿除了我和乖儿,根本没有其它人,不需要排队。我们俩上上下下,玩尽了最后的力气。

虫儿泡够了,坐在露台上边吃葡萄边看景。这会儿已经快到五点了,我趁着最后的力气,又在标准的五十米池子里游了几个来回。游累了,躺在水里看着天上白云朵朵,真是神仙一样的日子。

我们磨蹭到最后一个,才恋恋不舍地走了。

取车的时候费了一些周折。欧洲的室内停车场都是无人管理的,需要你找到自动付费的机器提前把停车时拿的计费磁卡给付了,才能开出去。这儿的停车场里找了几圈也没有看到自动付费机器,最后只好拦着一家开车要走的。一问,原来是在停车场外面的小镇商业区门口。当地人走习惯了,回来的路上顺手就付了。苦了我们游客,没有标识,没头脑地乱找。

下山的时候是日落西山霞满天了。西涌城堡看落日的计划是绝对赶不上了。叮当她们早上走得糊涂,尽管我一再提醒,出来才发现忘了带游泳衣了。虽然小镇也有的卖,但是她们看着时间不早,决定还是直奔西涌城堡去了。这一晚,大伙又都是逛到天黑才回到依云小镇,连赌场都没得逛了。住在日内瓦湖南岸,还是多少太费时间了。不过即使这样,我们住的公寓楼改建的旅馆还是有不少老中的身影。想来,自驾游的朋友是越来越多啦。

Tips:
公共温泉布尔格巴德Burgerbad的官网网站,有一个web cam(网络摄像机),可以实时地看到温泉的照片。
www.leukerbad.ch/en/webcam.cfm

Posted:
Warning: mktime() [function.mktime]: It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'America/New_York' for 'EST/-5.0/no DST' instead in /home/travels/public_html/blog/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

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Warning: date() [function.date]: It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'America/New_York' for 'EST/-5.0/no DST' instead in /home/travels/public_html/blog/wp-includes/functions.php on line 28
September 8, 2013in:
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