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2013在路上 - 瑞士奥地利捷克自驾游11 西涌城堡

与大多数建造在山岭上的城堡不同,西涌城堡(Cheteau de Chillon)是建在美丽的日内瓦湖岸。“西庸”在法文中即是“石头”的意思,想来城堡的名字就来源于它所在的那块凸出湖岸的巨岩。

中世纪时代,日内瓦湖(又称莱蒙湖)水道的重要意义不言而喻。即使是今天,日内瓦湖也是阿尔卑斯湖群中最大的一个,湖面面积宽广,以至于见到后的第一感觉有些像海,颜色也一改之前琉森湖的绿色调,更偏向蓝一些。地图上看上去,有人把日内瓦湖比作一弯新月,依我看,更像一只跳跃的海豚,而西涌城堡的位置就在海豚的唇上。

历史上的西涌城堡,起初的意义就是为了控制着这片水道而建的军事要塞。随着时代的变迁,西涌城堡时而是家族领地和王族的夏宫,时而又是军火库和暗无天日的监狱。而其闻名于世的原因之一,来源于英国诗人拜伦的一首著名的长篇叙事诗《西庸的囚徒(The Prisoner of Chillon)》,讲述的是日内瓦独立领袖博尼瓦尔被关押的一段历史。节选几句:

There are seven pillars of Gothic mould,
In Chillon’s dungeons deep and old,
There are seven columns, massy and grey,
Dim with a dull imprison’d ray,
A sunbeam which hath lost its way,
And through the crevice and the cleft
Of the thick wall is fallen and left;
Creeping o’er the floor so damp,
Like a marsh’s meteor lamp …

诗人的描写是细腻而令人绝望的,这让我们的西涌城堡之行订下一个调调,只可远观不可亵玩。这类阴气重的场所想要参观还是要慎重考虑一下。捷克的人骨教堂绝对更是一个例子,做功课的时候都能做出一股凉意。好在参观西涌城堡的门票不菲,门票12瑞朗,也彻底打消了我们的念头。

西庸城堡的整体颜色是厚重的土黄色,圆鼓鼓而显得坚固的塔楼,风格古朴。城垛上小小的孔眼,某个角度看过去,像个怪怪的囧字脸。靠岸的护城河并不宽,想来中世纪的攻城术也许比不过我们同时代的的中原大地吧。

城堡的一侧正在修葺,包裹得象个粽子似的,因此也懒了往那面逛的兴致。其实我知道如果平常,一直走到小码头边可以有一处拍城堡那一面很好的角度。我们随意沿着城堡背面的一条小路走下去,三三两两的游客中,老中又不少。一直走下来,才发现这儿别有一番景色。

一处小小的沙滩,是当地人休闲玩水的好地方。有漂亮的年青美眉在晒日光浴,有小朋友在湖边玩沙子,有几个老友在岩石上钓鱼,有三五成群在水里泡澡。湖里远一点有人荡舟划船,有人玩游艇。而千年的西涌古堡就在一旁,静静着立在水中。

对我们游客而言,古堡是名胜古迹;对当地人而言,古堡是他们的生活。几百年,一代又一代,古堡自自然然陪伴着他们。既没有少一块砖头,也没有多一个拆字。古堡替他们守着这片清澈的水,收着游客的钱,而当地人也优雅地生活在自己的日子里,无暇游客们好奇的目光。

又一大家人来到湖边,BBQ的炉子已经冒烟了,我想是我们该走的时候了。西庸城堡,有人评论是瑞士最美的城堡,我不知道。但我看到的西庸城堡是瑞士最有平常生活气息的一个古堡。

Posted:
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Warning: date() [function.date]: It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'America/New_York' for 'EST/-5.0/no DST' instead in /home/travels/public_html/blog/wp-includes/functions.php on line 28
September 9, 2013in:
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