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2013在路上 - 瑞士奥地利捷克自驾游27-1 迷人小镇哈尔施塔特

哈尔施塔特(Hallstatt)是奥地利的一个古老小镇,名字中的Hall据说源自于古克尔特语的「盐」,得名于村庄附近的盐矿。 1997年哈修塔特入选了世界文化遗产。我特意查了查世界文化遗产的网站,看到了这样一句话:Systematic salt production was being carried out in the region as early as the Middle Bronze Age, (the late 2nd millennium BC)。

The late 2nd millennium BC?那是我们所谓的青铜时代啊。天啊,这算是人类最古老的盐商发迹史吗?起码世界文化遗产的评语是这么认为的:“在萨尔茨卡默古特壮丽的自然景观中,人类活动开始于史前时期,开采盐矿,从公元前2000年到20世纪中叶,这一资源构成地区繁荣的基础,其繁荣反映于哈尔施塔特镇的优美建筑。”

只是我们当时去的时候并没有这么了解历史。小镇的名气在老中自助游中很盛,许多人称之为最美的奥地利小镇,不由不引起我们的兴趣。行程的时间比较紧,第一次登陆瑞士奥地利,想看的地方太多,排来排去,挤出一晚时间,从萨尔茨堡赶过来。其实,如果想轻松些,至少应该安排在小镇住上两晚。

奥地利的萨尔茨卡默古特(Salzkammergut)湖区本身就是一片著名的度假区,这儿许多湖穿成一串,小镇星罗棋布,各有各的特色。我们这一路,从月亮湖(Mondsee)的教堂那儿转过来,然后穿过圣沃尔夫冈湖来到巴德伊舍(Bad Ischl)吃蛋糕,又重新上路赶往哈修塔特。湖边常常看到当地人随意停的RV,湖光山色,流连其中。如果说瑞士的美在于阿尔卑斯山,我想奥地利的美则在于这片湖区了。

哈修塔特位于湖区南边哈尔施塔特湖的山谷里,算是偏僻了。小镇沿着湖边山脚建成的。冬天天色短的时候,经常下午四五点就很难有阳光照进来了,落日时光非常短暂,只有几分钟的瞬间。却因如此,暮色和晨光赋予小镇宛如仙境一般的幻觉。

我之前以为这么偏的地方只有开车才可以,后来遇到其他小朋友才知道,原来小镇这儿也可以搭火车来的。只是无论是从维也纳还是萨尔兹堡没有直达火车,至少要换三次火车以上,然后从湖的对面搭船过来。

有网友是如此总结的:圣沃尔夫冈是为欧洲游客准备的;哈尔施塔特是为亚洲游客准备的;而戈绍湖、阿特湖之类则是奥地利人为自己准备的。哈尔施塔特何时在亚洲人民心中崛起,我没有仔细考究。据说有一部韩剧是在小镇这儿取景,剧名是《春天的华尔兹》,故事内容不细说,但是风格是唯美纯情的。在这个N多人不再相信爱情的现实时代里,影视剧中一段穿越时空的爱情故事还是会让人充满童话般的想象,哈尔施塔特是可以追梦的。

我们的小车经过蜿蜒山路开进小镇的隧道,中间有一段出口。我一时有些恍惚,隐约记得功课里面有人提及这儿有个免费停车场。急着拐出来,小镇就在下面,却看不出有地方叫旅馆班车(shuttle)的方法。之前订旅馆的时候,关于小镇的出入停车是追着邮件具体问了的,这回儿不知道放哪儿了。暮色里,我让虫儿和乖先等着,自己顺着山边瀑布的木楼梯走下来。

小镇的第一眼有些像桃花源记中行文的这段感觉:

从口入。初极狭,才通人。复行数十步,豁然开朗。土地平旷,屋舍俨然,有良田美池桑竹之属。阡陌交通,鸡犬相闻。其中往来种作,男女衣着,悉如外人。黄发垂髫,并怡然自乐。

自然,小镇的街巷是蜿蜒崎岖的,往来男女以熟悉的亚裔为主。我想描述的是那种从山间出来,豁然开朗而游人怡然自乐的那一幕。昏黄幽暗的许愿池,湖边的大红灯笼,爬满玫瑰的彩色小房子,湖面静静的舢板和灯光,夜色中的青年男女。那一瞬间,我被打到了,似乎就莫名其妙地醉了。

我爱上了夜色中的小镇。

故事如果戛然而止在这儿,后续的发展绝对要走浪漫的爱情故事。可惜,偶已是拖家带口的人啦。气喘嘘嘘找到旅馆问清楚,然后又行色匆匆地爬回山坡上,捡了乖儿和虫儿,继续前行开到镇子里面的P1停车场,收拾了简单的行李,叫了旅馆的班车,重新回旅馆办理入住手续,故事就变成了琐碎的家庭剧了。之前的邮件沟通看来有作用,我们拿到了旅馆最高层的一间湖景房。

再后来,我和虫儿出去找水,找到唯一一家开门的小卖铺,老板却说今儿白天这儿华氏97度高温,居然把水都卖光了。一杯冰咖啡,3块8,一瓶柠檬茶,2块5。两个人牵着手慢慢地踱回来。平日里的时间像手里的细沙,攥的越紧流的越快。如今松了手,却也感觉慢下来了。

最唯美的爱情童话结局,是黄昏下的那对背景。最平淡的生活,也希望有偶遇的惊喜(非惊吓)。这不,湖对岸的小镇突然放起了烟火,而远处的天空却是电闪雷鸣。。。

不多想,洗洗睡了。

Posted:
Warning: mktime() [function.mktime]: It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'America/New_York' for 'EST/-5.0/no DST' instead in /home/travels/public_html/blog/wp-includes/functions.php on line 24

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September 21, 2013in:
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