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2013在路上 - 瑞士奥地利捷克自驾游 20 新旧天鹅堡

新旧天鹅堡坐落在德国小镇菲森Fusssen,非常靠近奥地利的边界。德奥边界在这儿,犬牙交错,没有什么正式关卡,一不留神就开到德国境内了。对了,从列支敦士登进入奥地利境内的时候,需要在附近的加油站购买奥地利的高速票。我们自驾这一路,瑞士、奥地利、捷克都需要高速票,而德国就大方多了。高速票天数不同价格不同,我们都是买最便宜的就够用了。当然,瑞士高速票租车的时候自然就包括了。

去天鹅堡的路是山路,比想象中的费时间,结果赶到菲森的时候,都快下午四点了。望着远处的新天鹅堡方向一路开过去,按网上推荐停在P4停车场,后来发现这不是最好的选择,因为停车场虽然靠近上山的公车,但是购买参观天鹅堡票的售票处还在山坡下面。

天气热极了,绝对有摄氏三十度了。度假的时候想着欧洲的夏天避开意大利,瑞士奥地利一路应该是凉凉的,气温正好。可惜运气不好,正好赶上一阵热浪。前几天在瑞士住在里,还没有这么热。这会儿,酷暑难耐,短短的一小段路就走的大汗淋漓。

赶到售票处的时候才发现,去新天鹅堡内部参观的旅游团今天全部都售光了,只剩下山下的旧天鹅堡。看来是来的太晚了。没有什么好办法,行程这一段设计的太紧张了,否则这儿住一晚就好了。有个秘籍是天鹅堡的售票是可以网上预订的,只是这些旅游团是严格按时间算的,你需要比预约进堡时间提前1小时取票。如果你误了的话估计票就作废了。所以说,网上预订虽然省时间,但是也需要你对时间能严格掌控的情况下。很显然,对于我们这样长途跋涉的不适合。

虽然内部参观的tour没有了,但是上山的公车还开,只是人上人海,快赶上国内的五一出游了。等了一阵,人快烤焦了,才等到公车。有些人懒得等,坐马车上山,感觉浪漫些,只是马身上的味道实在大了一点。

公车是停在天鹅堡对面的玛丽安桥,依旧是人挤人,老中似乎在这一旅游点儿的比例其高,叮当居然还巧遇她们的邻居了。之前只知道人家也是欧洲游,行程不是很一样,没想到在这个时空碰上来,还有更巧的事情吗?从另一个侧面,能说明老中来的很多吗?

玛丽安桥修的还是很结实,这么多游客站了几百年,居然还好好的。贡献一个窍门,就是一直往桥的尽头走,离桥的入口越远,游人也稍稍少一些。

风景还是值得赞的。我们的好运气是2013年新天鹅堡刚刚完成长达N年的修缮工程,脚手架什么的都拆掉了,这会儿看到的是完完整整漂漂亮亮的城堡了。一提起新天鹅堡的德文,名字绕口,大家都会不约而同提及就是那迪斯尼乐园中的白雪公主城堡。这会儿远远看去,不得不感慨,巴伐利亚这片广阔土地上的众多城堡之中(一说总数高达14000个),新天鹅堡的美是和童话世界想象中的城堡有着共通的。

可惜周围的凡人太多了,天气太热了,我们不能免俗的拍了拍大头照,就离开了玛丽安桥。

沿着去城堡的林间小路,前面的一对年青夫妇带着个八九岁的小朋友,听口音有些四川那儿的。爸爸正在给小朋友讲城堡的历史。

“过去有个国王,小的时候住在山下的黄石旧城堡里。。。”

“然后嘞?”小男孩问。

“他长大的时候想给自己修个新的城堡,然后就设计了这个新天鹅堡。”

“然后嘞?”

“然后他就花了好多钱。”

“然后嘞?”

“然后他就不学无术,整天玩儿,老百姓就很不喜欢他。”显然,爸爸领会着寓言故事要有教育意义,“然后有一天,他就莫名其妙地死掉了。所以啊,你不能不好好学习。”

“然后嘞?”小男孩很有追问精神。

我忍不住插嘴,“然后就没有然后了”。

巴伐利亚王国的国王路德维希二世就是故事的主角。说的没有错,这显然是一个有着浪漫和童话色彩,充满艺术气息的年青人,不幸的是家族赋予了他国王的名分和担子。他的一生,受制于朝政中长老,又无法忍受宫廷礼仪和权力争斗,痴迷于自己的喜好却因过度挥霍而被当时民众反对。感情生活也是悲剧色彩,和他一起度过童年的表姑茜茜公主却在他爱情懵懂的年纪远嫁奥地利,而后他又突然在婚礼前夜解除与茜茜妹妹索菲公主的婚事,从此一生未娶。年纪轻轻于40岁就莫名地死在湖中,至今原因不明。只不过当年遭到民众强烈反对的新天鹅堡却在他死后开放公众,如今成为小镇菲森的主要收入来源,这算是悲剧逆袭吗?

后来去基姆湖(Chiemsee)男人岛参观的时候,发现岛上及其奢华的海伦基姆宫也是这哥们设计建造的,还有巴伐利亚州西南部上阿玛高附近的林德霍夫宫,而且这两座宫殿都有模仿凡尔赛宫的风格。设计华丽,却也掏空了国库。如此看来,路德维希二世的艺术造诣无可厚非,但性格的确有些偏执。成也萧何,败也萧何。

回到新天鹅堡的正门,近距离看看城堡的细节,大理石的外墙,高耸的塔楼,家族的徽章,处处都是设计精品。去城堡里面参观的队伍排成行,我们却有些无奈。买了些漂亮的明信片和纪念品,恋恋不舍下山了。

Posted:
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October 3, 2013in:
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