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东非的功课

我的理想行程:11 nights

Nairobi 1 -
Lake Bogoria/Lake Naivasha 1 -
Amboseli National Park (view Mt.Kilimanjaro) -1
Maasai Mara NP 3night - 4 games
Serengeti NP 2night - 4 games 反复与旅行社确认营地必须在SERONERA
Ngorongoro Conservation Area 1 night
Zanzibar 3 nights
Nairobi 1

===============================================
AUS - LHR - NBO: $1578/pp

ZNZ - NBO:

booking.fly540.com
$651/3pp
bookings.precisionairtz.com
$678/3pp more flights

ARK - ZNZ
zanair.ttinteractive.com/empresa/site/de…
$549 /3pp

bookings.precisionairtz.com
$675/3pp

zanair and precisionairtz take turns. Tuesday

Khweza Bed and Breakfast $85

Fogo Gaucho Churrascaria rank 5/298
Viking House | Off Waiyaki Way, Nairobi, Kenya

Pampa Grill Lavingtonm rank 73
King’ara Road, Lavington Kenya, Nairobi, Kenya
reasonable price for Brazilian meat; 2nd floor of the building in which the Panari Hotel

Seven Seafood & Grill rank 12
ABC Place, Waiyaki Way, Nairobi, Kenya

The Carnivore Restaurant
Langata Road, Nairobi, Kenya
Legend BBQ restaurant
10:00 am – 3:00 pm, 6:00 – 9:00 pm

during your last day on safari in Kenya, a lunch or dinner at the restaurant is the most memorable… 40min drive from airport

Activities:

Giraffe Centre - Giraffe close up, hand feed
Langata Rd, Nairobi 00509, Kenya

Nairobi National Park, Karen Blixen Museum and Giraffe Center - 3 different place

David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust - baby elephant
Mbagathi Road, Nairobi 00503 , Kenya

You probably don’t need more that 30/min at Giraffe Center (fee about USD$10 payable in Ksh) close-by is Kazuri Beads and if not a Sunday ask to do the factory tour which is very interesting; then you can visit Ellee orphanage (fee $4-5) about 15/min drive for 11am 1/hr presentation, Then a bit of backtrack for brief visit Karen Blixen House (fee $4-5), then to nearby Utamaduni Crafts for shopping, but their outdoor cafe has nice diverse menu at the ‘right price’ is great for lunch vs Carnivore. Then to airport.

Nairobi: Maasai Market

This is a market where you can buy souvenirs to remember Kenya. There is a wide range of things that you can buy: jewelry, hats, bags, shoes, fabrics, paintings, place mats, coasters, soap stone carvings, and wooden statues. Maasai Market is an open air travelling market.

These are the locations for Maasai Market on different days
Wednesdays: Capital Centre on Mombasa Road
Thursdays: The Junction Shopping Mall
Fridays: Village Market, or the Junction.
Saturdays: The High Court Parking Lot in the city centre
Sundays: Yaya Centre in Hurlingam

Hire a driver:
It’s still around 5,000 or 2500 half day, with about 300 per hour waiting, if the taxi driver waits. Ksh 5000 < $60
----------
www.zanzibarentacar.com/carhire.html
Zanzibar Rent a car, $45/day for Toyato RAV4

在桑岛别忘了吃海鲜,便宜。超大只的活螃蟹5000先令/公斤,即10元rmb一斤。买煮好的螃蟹要贵些,当然也比国内便宜的多。个头大的惊人,赶早去菜市场,可以买到比国内大闸蟹大的多的超大螃蟹,一只螃蟹占满整个盘子!晚上在市区海边的广场有夜市6点到10点,美食很多

Pagoda - Chinese restaurant for crabs. 蒸螃蟹,味道很好 网上网评一般
Suicide Alley, Stone Town, Tanzania

石头城开船30分钟有个监狱岛,上面住着很多象龟,游览费用约15岛每人
Prison island - It was $25 each for the boat ride, and $4 each to see the tortoises.

岛南端看海豚Dolphin Safari. 野生海豚群
是从海边拉生意的小哥那里谈得
从paje海滩出发,坐人力帆船出海在chwaka bay看日落,8刀一人,10人同行,两船
从paje海滩去海豚湾看海豚追海豚,浮潜,两个沙岛嬉戏,海上自助烧烤,早上6点活动到下午4点,50刀一人,4人同行
从paje海滩去看海豚和浮潜,6点出发,9点半回来,8人同行,18刀一人
海滩海鲜烧烤大餐,一个条鱼,一只大龙虾,鱿鱼,扇贝,米饭,大饼,15刀一人
香料市场游完+paje到stonetown transfer,50刀4人
cristal resort旁边的泰国,日本,餐厅,东西很好吃,吃到撑死,一个人也就60人民币,国内随便吃个泰国菜没吃饱也要200一人

Jozani Forest to see the monkey

If you do Safari blue for just snorkeling is better to take Snorkeling at Mnemba Conservation Area.The snorkeling at Mnemba is fantastic and the best on the island. Tour One Ocean

Thai/Sushi Fusion
Paje Beach, Zanzibar, Tanzania, Paje, Tanzania

Car hire:

Online (www.zanzibarcarhire.com) and will meet you at the airport, your hotel, or any other reasonable place to deliver your vehicle. Their price for a Rav 4 was less than 45/day - more like 38-40USD a day (plus gas of course).

We come just back from Zanzibar. We rented a car from Zanzibar car hire in Kenyatta road in stone town. See address higher up in this page. Very good experience. 30 dollar a day for a 4×4 little Suzuki. Be sure that you get this price confirmed in the email back. The last day they even came to get the car back at our hotel.

Few recommendations:

Police stops you now and then for control and sometime asking for backshis.
We got stopped seven times and in two cases they where threading with a fine of 50 dollar. I give them 2 dollars and they let us go.

1. be careful that they cant find anything. Put the belt on, have your international driving license ready to show. Don’t drive to fast. …
2. when you stop, better you begin very polite the conversation. Ask for a direction to go, even ask their opinion over a place you would like to visit…
3. if you feel that they want a tip, let them say this. Normally they don’t want to say it and talk till you propose it.
4. 2 dollar is more than enough. If they ask for more you can say that is the fourth time that you had to stop and that every time 2 dollar is very expensive.
5. Be very polite and talk about Zanzibar.

One more thing:2 times the police told me that de international drivers licence had to be registered in à official bureau at stone town. I dont know if is this is thrue.

We had à verf Nice trip and i am happy that i rented the car. At the end is much cheaper than taxis and you can stop when you want to see the villages and talk with the people.

Have a good time in Zanzibar!!!!
==============================
bbs.qyer.com/thread-813992-1.html
旺季马赛马拉和塞伦盖蒂里便宜的经济型LODGE也得300多美金/双人房/晚,高端LODGE得600多美金/双人房/晚。最著名的中高端连锁酒店集团有SERENA ,SOPA,几乎每个保护区里都能见到他们的连锁酒店;坦桑尼亚还有个比较著名的较便宜酒店连锁集团WILDLIFE。

因为东非猎游车是必备物品,以我们的陆地巡洋舰为例,最多可以乘坐6人,每天250美元
吃住门票:4072USD;车:陆地巡洋舰每天USD250,8天合计USD2000,我们俩摊USD1000;
当地机票:内罗毕飞乞力马扎罗,肯航官网上买USD348/两人;
当地消费:USD850,包括刚性消费(酒店小费、司机小费等)约USD200+坦桑签证USD100; 做SPA花USD100,最后一天内罗毕吃大餐约USD100,纳瓦沙游湖USD50,行李从阿鲁沙托运到塞伦盖蒂USD60,购物约USD240 热气球:USD499/人,合计USD998;
===============================================
bbs.qyer.com/thread-865243-3.html

知道了到当地联系旅行社价格低,肯尼亚和坦桑尼亚分开联系价格低。

在肯尼亚KATO上面发了个询价,又给在坦桑尼亚官网上有名的旅行社发了电子邮件,收到了很多报价,挑出价格低的几家反复联系,最后肯尼亚选定了NEW KENYA LODGE这家旅店提供的TOUR;坦桑尼亚选定了AFRICA ROYAL TREKKING LTD;费用都是到后签合同付全款。根据了解的情况,如果到后现找,还是能够再低一点的,肯尼亚每人每天100美金,坦桑尼亚每人每天135美金是我了解的现在最低价。这个报价为散客报价,不是包车 由于SAFARI的报价主要差别在住宿

按我们行程顺序评价一下去过的国家公园:

评价去过的国家公园是件吃力不讨好的事,但我还是要把我的感受说出来,因为我当初就是看了大家的感受确定的行程,实践也证明大多数感受是对的。相信穷游儿也不会仅听一面之词,会综合大家的感受做出自己的选择。但我还是强调一下季节,因为不同季节差别较大,如果是春节期间我会把重点放在坦桑尼亚一侧;当然,如果不需要借助长假,还是应该安排在最好的季节去。

①马赛马拉国家公园,野生动物最佳观赏地,距离内罗毕约6小时车程。7-10月为旺季,8月看到天国之渡的可能性最大。每年角马过马拉河的时间并不确定,今年8月很多人看到了,虽然都是小股部队,没有百万雄师过大江的景象。我们也看到了集结在坦桑尼亚一侧的角马,但没有看到渡河。马赛马拉是我们这次看到动物种类最多且密度最大的国家公园。马赛马拉面积约1800平方公里,面积也就塞伦盖蒂的八分之一,但已经非常大,我们三天时间也只走了约三分之一的地方。尽管马赛马拉动物数量大大少于塞伦盖蒂,但动物密度较大,特别是路网密度较大,使得人们近距离观赏到动物的概率大大增加。但我们在马赛马拉没有看到花豹和犀牛,花豹是只差2分钟,犀牛据说数量较少。我看过的帖子里大约有三分之一没在马赛马拉看到花豹,花豹喜欢呆在树上难以发现,如果不去坦桑尼亚行程里最好加上桑布鲁,看别人帖子在那里看到花豹的概率较大。

②博格利亚湖,火烈鸟栖息地,距离纳库鲁约2小时车程。我们去的时候水很大,热泉那边都过不去,所有车子只能停在湖边看火烈鸟;火烈鸟的数量不少,铺满远处湖面,但与所看到8月的帖子比少很多,且距离较远,没有大炮拍不到满意的片子,看着还是很过瘾的,喜欢火烈鸟的人必须纳入行程。

③纳库鲁湖国家公园,仅存的犀牛家园,距离内罗毕3小时车程。曾经以火烈鸟铺满湖面而著名,近年因降水增多火烈鸟都已经转移了,只剩零星,其实一些水湾处成千上万只还是有的,但距离远。这里有很多犀牛,黑犀牛和白犀牛都有,还有很多水鸟,狮子、花豹也有,其他常见动物不少,且景色宜人。去前不少人建议取消这个点,认为东西不多门票却要80美金。我们考虑再三还是选择去,因为怕别处看不到犀牛,事实是除了纳库鲁,我们仅在恩戈罗远远地看到一只黑犀牛。我们还是很喜欢纳库鲁,但如果不喜欢犀牛这个点也可以取消,性价比的确不算高。

④纳瓦沙湖,纯净水世界,离内罗毕一个半小时车程。可以乘船游湖,水天一色,赏湖面水鸟翻飞,看非洲海雕捕鱼,可近距离接触河马,也可登上湖中岛屿游览,我们游湖1.5小时,非常愉快的经历,喜欢打鸟的人一定更喜欢这里。我安排行程一向是只保重点,所以并没有安排这里,由于纳库鲁去安博赛利经过这里,司机提议早些出发加上这里,很棒。

⑤安博赛利国家公园,大象乐园,观赏乞力马扎罗山最好的地方,距离内罗毕3.5小时车程,距离肯坦边境纳曼加关口1.5小时车程。这里可以看到数量繁多的庞大象群,其他动物和鸟类也多,大猫好象不太多,清晨推开房门看到乞力马扎罗耸立眼前时心里充满感动。但选择了这里没看到乞力马扎罗的人对这里评价不高。

⑥马尼亚拉湖国家公园,以树狮闻名,距阿鲁沙约2个半小时车程。这里不少猴面包树,景色优美,但对我提出的要看到树狮的请求,司机说可以用相片来满足我。湖中有火烈鸟,可惜路距离湖边很远,无法靠近。马尼亚拉草深林密,难以发现动物,一群大象就在我们车旁5米的距离与我们一起前行,待我们看清时大象已经张开耳朵怒对我们了,因为距离太近了。我们在那里又一次与花豹擦肩而过,前面一辆车的司机告诉我们,刚才一只花豹在面前这棵腊肠树上上上下下三次,估计还会出现,但我们等了10多分钟花豹也没有出现,这正是狩猎的刺激,动物恰好出现在路边,而我们恰好也在的概率有多大?其实我们在马尼亚拉还是看到不少东西的,只不过之前在肯尼亚已经看过太多动物,所以难免失望,但如果我们看到了那只花豹呢?评价一定不同。所以我想如果只玩坦桑尼亚还是可以加上这里的。

⑦塞伦盖蒂国家公园,野生动物的天堂,距阿鲁沙约6小时车程。塞伦盖蒂面积约15000平方公里,与马赛马拉相邻,动物数量和种类最多且更为注意环境保护。塞伦盖蒂太大,我们时间少不能贪多,确定了只去中心区——SERONERA山谷的长草平原,这里是公园总部所在地,大部分的旅馆和野营地也集中在此。这个区域集中了全非洲最多的狮子和豹子,是最好的观赏大猫的地区。尽管我们在那里的3天很精彩,每天都看到了所有大猫,但在我们去的这个季节,这个区域的动物密度远不如马赛马拉,再加上路网密度较稀,严格限制车辆下路,所以游客能看到的动物数量和种类低于马赛马拉(花豹除外)。我们去程遇到返回的游客一拨告诉我们3天没有看到一只猎豹,一拨告诉我们只远远地看到一只在树上睡觉的花豹,弄得我们非常紧张。正如非洲的青山所言,塞伦盖蒂适合深度游,多呆几天,换不同的区域住宿,才能保证猎游品质。

⑧恩戈罗恩戈罗自然保护区,东非大草原的缩影,距离阿鲁沙3小时车程。Ngorongoro是一个巨大的火山喷发口,世界第二大火山口,最高点海拔2135米。火山口直径18公里,深610米,底部面积310平方公里。动物们被自然形成的火山口包围在内,形成了一个小生态圈,几乎涵盖所有动物类型,使它成为世界上的自然奇观, 也成为去坦桑尼亚SAFARI的必去之地。

综合来看,坦桑尼亚SAFARI适合富游,营地住宿比肯尼亚艰苦且价格高,性价比不如住LODGE,如果穷游只去肯尼亚即可。

4至6个人一车比较合适。由于全程包车Safari

选择了和当地的旅行社联系, 统一安排配车, 配司机/导游, 包门票, 包三餐, 包住宿. 包每天的瓶装水.

sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/s720…

3月订完美国飞非洲的机票, 就开始一边询问看动物的tour一边开始查非洲内部各国之间的机票.

最后经过1个月的时间才把非洲内部的机票各个航段confirm,因为 实在是太贵了, 必须要反复斟酌反复改路线。
经过2个月的时间才把看动物的tour敲定. 经过1个月搞定沙漠的tour, 又经过快1个月搞定了瀑布和开普敦的tour.

// Nairobi to Zanzibar $400 but Arusha to Zanzibar $200
forums.huaren.us/showtopic.aspx?topicid=…
8天7夜的safari之旅 Safari

费用:1400/人,小费200 桑岛:spice tour 25/person; 包车东岸一日游50;住宿可能是30/day

Nairobi 1 - Sambmuru 2 - Lake Nakuru 1 - Massa Mara 3 - Amborseli(Kenya) 1 - Nairobi 1 - Zanzibar(Tanzania island) 3 - Nairobi 1 - Amboseli 1 - Nairobi 1

大部分的safari都会把Game Drive 的时间安排在早上6点到9点和晚上4点到6点。肯尼亚的国家公园一般晚6点关门

肯尼亚北边的Samburu National Reserve。 这个公园面积虽然不大,但是动物种类很多,其中有很多是东非独一无二珍奇动物 Ashnil lodge。 这个lodge是我们这次safari中住得的最好的地方

Samburu与索马里接壤

车到Lake Nakuru National Park的时候已经将近下午4点了 与Samburu相比,这个公园少了一些原始的味道,但多了一些精致。纳库鲁湖以火烈鸟而著名,但是不乏其他草原动物。特别犀牛,在东非其他地方已经绝迹,Lake Nakuru lodge。这是一个在中国人中声望很高的lodge 中国大食堂

从纳库鲁湖去马赛马拉要开八个小时的车 途中我们停了两次。第一站就是Lake Navasha。Lake Navasha 是肯尼亚第二大淡水湖 雇了一支船在湖上徘徊了1个多小时 东非大裂谷里穿行了。大裂谷(Great Rift Valley) 中午时分我们来到赤道线

角马和斑马的迁徙使马赛马拉国家公园在夏天(从六月到九月)成为炙手可热的旅游目的地,所以园内的住宿非常贵,我们就选择了露营的方式。永久营地(permanent camp).帐篷是早就搭好的 帐篷内还有抽水马桶和浴室。

东非大草原主要指的就是肯尼亚的马赛马拉和坦桑尼亚的赛伦盖提。

看乞力马扎罗山的最佳地点应该是在安博塞利国家公园 从内罗毕出发去国家公园有四个小时的车程。Amboseli NP (?)著名的景点就是乞力马扎罗山下成群的大象

去参观samburu部族。

从内罗毕坐飞机去桑给巴尔到要一个半小时,途中在肯尼亚的蒙巴桑停留20分钟。没到过桑岛就不算来过坦桑尼亚。桑岛汇集了印度,阿拉伯和非洲等多元文化,桑岛的大部分居民是穆斯林 当地的香料之旅(spice tour)广场上小贩摆起了摊子卖吃的。很多海鲜,看着挺好吃,但是大部分不合口味。

桑给巴尔东边的海滩是世界闻名的。paja beach活动。桑岛的最后一个上午我们去了监狱岛(prison island)。在那里我们看了百年的大乌龟,然后snorkel。

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Kenya & Tanzania -> 8天7夜 看动物
Nairobi 1night
Lake Nakuru NP 1night - 2 games
Maasai Mara NP 2night - 4 games
Serengeti NP 2night - 4 games
Arusha 1 night
Day 0, Arrive Nairobi at night
Day 1, Lake Nakuru NP (Morning game & Night game)看火烈鸟的地方 那里的鸟是越来越少了 狮子, 斑马, 水牛, 羚羊, 白犀牛, 猴子, 各种鸟. Lake Nakuru Lodge
Day 2, Lake Nakuru NP to Maasai Mara NP (Night game)
Day 3, Maasai Mara NP (whole day game)肯尼亚看动物最著名的地方. 我们去的时候正赶上大迁徙 这里基本上想看的动物都看到了. 狮子, 豹子, 长颈鹿, 大象, 河马, 角马, 斑马, 水牛, 各种羚羊, 猴子, 狒狒, 鸵鸟, 秃鹫, 老鹰, 鳄鱼, 各种鸟. 这里最震撼的就是成片成片的斑马和角马. 几十万只是有了 Mara Serena Lodge
Day 4, Maasai Mara NP (Morning game) to Serengeti NP (Night game)
Day 5, Serengeti NP (whole day game) 坦桑尼亚看动物最著名的地方.大迁徙刚刚结束 Seronera wildlife lodge
Day 6, Serengeti NP (Morning game) to Arusha
Day 7, Arusha to Nairobi

关于看动物, 学问很多. 如果是7月去, 大部分动物在坦桑尼亚那边, 8月中旬以后基本动物就已经迁徙到了肯尼亚这边了.如果只玩Kenya或者Tanzania其中一边, 那么5-6天的tour就够了.

强烈建议4个人一个车子。 绝对不能多于4个。Kenya最著名的马赛马拉国家公园Maasai Mara NP和Tanzania最著名的塞伦盖地国家公园Serengeti NP. 两个公园间的路况真的是很差很差. 地图上看着不远, 但至少要开10个小时

从Nakuru到Maasai Mara NP开了半天多。
从Maasai Mara NP到Serengeti NP开了一天。
从Serengeti NP到Arusha开了一天。

非洲,有一半的时间在路上。而且还是没法熟睡的簸箕路。

除了日当午的时候,其他的感慨:非洲什么都挺好的,就是太冷,户外景观晚餐,防风衣、抓绒、烤火各种毯子包裹。 湿纸巾 清凉油

如果让我再选一次,我可能会问10家左右的旅行社,然后多进行价格和行程的比较和修改以及讲价

药物:感冒药,发烧药,消炎药,拉肚子药,邦迪,蚊虫叮咬后防痒膏,晒伤膏。

洗漱:如果住大宾馆基本上东西都会提供。如果住小宾馆请自带shampoo,conditioner,body wash等等。防晒霜(必须!),纸巾,湿巾,消毒gel

旅行社价格 2900 *2=5800 (包括所有住宿,车是landcruiser,因为只有两个人坐所以贵一些,4个人的话最划算。我们住宿的hotel如果稍微研究过非洲的就会知道都属于中等偏上的。饭也基本都包括了,也包括了后来临时加的半天。)

Souvenir idea:
Tablecloths or blankets are beautiful, but do weight a bit and take up room when packing. The same goes for women’s Kangas or beach Kikoys… beautiful but can be heavy.

The idea of bookmarkers, letter openers (these two easy to pack and weigh almost nothing), beaded bracelets (I have many from too many years to count, still look as good as new), even beaded belts, or beaded watch bands. If you have room to pack, salad bowls with wooden spoon/fork w/ animal heads. Of course, small carved animals. For special people you want to spend a bit more, consider something from Kazuri beads… most unique and not found outside of Kenya and if found elsewhere, at least twice to three times for price. Their little earrings are lovely and inexpensive. Can match these earrinhgs up with a single band bracelet.

Posted:
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December 15, 2013in:
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