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2013在路上 - 瑞士奥地利捷克自驾游13-2 雨中的伯尔尼老城

伯尔尼老城是一个具有中世纪风情的城市,始建于12世纪。15世纪的一场大火,烧掉了老城中原本的木质结构建筑,而重建中渐渐以石材取代,至18世纪建成如今的规模,一路保留到现在。1983年被联合国科教文组织授予世界历史文化名城,2010年评为全球宜居城市前十位榜单。当地居民曾为了噪音问题而反对建造大型机场,由此可见伯尔尼在全球追求现代化潮流中秉承的不同观念。

没有什么比雨中逛伯尔尼更有优势的了。老街的石材建筑外面支撑着巨大的拱柱,里面自然形成走廊。廊道相连,拱门相接,蜿蜒漫长,形成拱廊。据说,这种建筑风格恰恰是中世纪的文化特征。无论是石板路,石柱,外墙,还是屋顶的红瓦,无不透着暗沉的底色,毫不遮掩地诉说着久远的历史。如今的拱廊里聚集着各式各样的小店,只是今天是礼拜日,照例全部关门休息。不过也正因为如此,也让雨中的老城多了几份历史的沧桑,让我们多了些凭古吊今的感触。

手中的地图扔到了一边,我们无所事事在拱廊里闲逛,不知不觉来到了钟楼前。一群游人等在哪儿,一问,原来大家是在等着整点的报时呢。雨越发大起来,我们不能免俗,跟着好奇地等,想看看到底有什么机关。没想到真正到了个时候,几个小人偶似乎转了个圈,还没等我揉揉眼睛的功夫就不动了,人群一哄而散。我不觉有些哑笑,真够无厘头的。这样的傻事后来还在布拉格干过一会,也是超无聊,想来也就是游客才有这份闲情吧。真正感到有点意思的是不经意在慕尼黑逛玛丽安广场的时候,那儿的教堂钟声悠长,音律清澈,更难得的是几座不同教堂凑在一起,钟楼的时间多少有些不准。每到整点的时候,整个老城中心此起彼伏,一片钟声的海洋,宛如我们古时钟乐一般。所以说,莫要傻等时间的脚步,随意既好。

这儿老城的标志除了钟楼,还有就是伯尔尼大教堂,一座瑞士晚期哥特式的建筑。按攻略指点,高耸的尖塔是鸟瞰伯尔尼的好去处。可惜远远就看到所谓瑞士最高的塔楼捆的像个粽子似的,被维修中,而这类的维修在节奏缓慢的欧洲常常是经年累月的。踱到大门口,门窗紧闭,虽然是礼拜日,却丝毫没有开放的样子。我们只好在外面缅怀了一下这幅主题为《最后的审判》的门檐浮雕,果然精工细雕,工艺繁杂。看着看着,突然心中冒出一句:哪个不听话,我一刀斩你个桃花开。又一想,宗教圣地,怎能如此轻言。罪过罪过,阿弥陀佛。

逛伯尔尼老城你不会错过的还有那些街心的雕塑喷泉了。据说老城区现存多达十一座16世纪时建造的喷泉,每个泉都有不同的泉柱塑像,不同的传说典故。没有刻意地去数星星。不说伯尔尼,整个瑞士任何城市的流水喷泉都是可以直接饮用的,而旅馆也好民宿也好任何时候打开水龙头的水都是冰冰凉的感觉。在也许为数不多而我们偏偏赶上的炎热日子里,那份清凉那份旅途不经意的方便,想来是除了湖光山色的自然风情之外,瑞士留个我的最深印象了。

伯尔尼之游的最后结尾是全家坐在穿城而过的阿勒河河畔轻松地泡着小脚。清澈的莱茵河支流,几千年来,就这样静静地流淌着,眷顾着这座美丽的小城。当年的爱因斯坦也会像我们一样坐在这儿,一边泡着脚一边琢磨着他的相对论吧?人这一生,相对于历史的长河;而人类的历史,相对于宇宙星辰的浩瀚,无须多言。凡人也好,伟人也罢,也许当下这最轻松的一刻,才是最值得把握和珍惜的。

Tips:
1. 我的瑞士好功课 Berner Oberland Trip Plan - Jungfraujoch/Schilthorn/First - Berne - Interlaken
www.travelsuperlink.com/blog/?p=728

Posted:
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Warning: date() [function.date]: It is not safe to rely on the system's timezone settings. You are *required* to use the date.timezone setting or the date_default_timezone_set() function. In case you used any of those methods and you are still getting this warning, you most likely misspelled the timezone identifier. We selected 'America/New_York' for 'EST/-5.0/no DST' instead in /home/travels/public_html/blog/wp-includes/functions.php on line 28
August 24, 2013in:
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